Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah not a noob question man. how would u learn if u dont ask?

there are variations on the design of o2 sensors. but in general most look like this:

post-40676-1201584883_thumb.jpg

they are located usually in the dump pipe. your should see it sticking out the top of the dump pipe.

it is the size of the THREAD that u have to worry about when fitting one, but most are universal fit, it is the wiring you have to watch for.

it is used to measure the AFR, then the ecu uses that info to make its adjustments.

but it is predominately used for cruising

Edited by r33cruiser

ah cool I found it, was thinking the guys took it off when they installed an after market muffler on my car.

It sounds nice but tis shit on fuel econ and performance, had a look today and it seems they used 2" - 2.25" piping :huh:

Edited by POLICE
ah cool I found it, was thinking the guys took it off when they installed an after market muffler on my car.

It sounds nice but tis shit on fuel econ and performance, had a look today and it seems they used 2" - 2.25" piping :banana:

Did you get a whole new exhaust sytem or just the catback? They wont change the dump/front and/or cat unless you ask them.

Stock dump/front pipe is 2.25" (I think, or 2.5", 2" is for NA's). (See below for pic on R33 GTST.)

o2_ciricled.jpg

ps. rofl @ your signature. What year did you leave?

nah I just had a muffler change, cause my friend told me about some of the horror stories ppl had with a cat/turbo back system installed

I measured the stock GTS-T piping and it's 60mm in diameter, the piping i had was 55mm, though not alot in it

they had to bend the pipe to fit it on which makes some part oval like and I dun think that's good for the exhaust

Oh and I left at 2000

Edited by POLICE

Hey Victor it's Ge hahaha I remember you and Tatfree (however you spell his name) and other guy Pui

you used to play handball with us near the L block right?

EDIT

oh no wrong person, you hang with that Jeremy guy right?

Edited by POLICE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...