Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got:

Full RB20 manual Conversion kit with heavy duty clutch (80%) life. gearbox is a freshly rebuilt only done 2000kms with reciepts. SOLD

RB20 Motor bare, just been serviced, never misses a beat SOLD

with power steer, alternator, ac compresser n all that stuff SOLD

with ecu and loom plus stuff mentioned above SOLD

RB20 ECU and loom SOLD

R32 Front seats, perfect conditon $200 pair firm.

R32 rear seat, perfect condition $75

or $250 for front and rear.

Front right quarter panel, white, great condition $200 neg.

Factory R32 Sunroof, NO rust, NO leaks, tinted glass< with everything included $1500 neg. (can be seen working)

R32 Drivers Door, white, perfect condition $300 with all switches and motors included (glass is tinted)

R32 Crash pad, no rips $100 firm

R32 Tail lights, white $80 each or $140 for the pair firm

R32 bootlid, with GTS-T M-Spec spoiler, perfect condition, white $150 neg.

Rear window, darkest legal tint, no cracks $300 neg. SOLD

Drivers rear quarter window, tinted, no cracks, hard to find, $300 firm

Rear bumper, GTS-T M-Spec, white $80 firm

Kenwood Double din CD player with built in equilizer, plays CD and Minidisk $150 neg.

R32 M-Spec Front Calipers and big brakes with new bendix pads $400 neg.

or as a 5 stud conversion incl. hubs $ 600 neg.

R32 GTS-T M-Spec rear brakes with new pads $ 400 neg.

or as a 5 stud conv. for 180sx, s13, a31 $500 neg.

A31 Cefiro Rear cradle, perfect for deleting hicas from R32, direct bolt in $500 neg.

Complete Airconditioning system $500 (includes pipes, condenser and eveything u need for it to work)

lots of other minor stuff for sale. Reply if there is anything u need but not mentioned here and i will see if i have it.

If interested in anything and want photos, just ask and they will be put up within 24 hours.

No prices will be discussed in open forum pm me if you want to work out a price.

or call me on 0417 084 405

Edited by SLY-dN

yea caar is being stripped

passenger door was damaged and so was shell but driveline is fine and so is pretty much all interior

ahh bugger. sorry to hear.

how much for bits i mentioned also stcok intercooler. dont need piping etc.

are there any plastics in the boot. also the jack fro the boot.

think thats all i can think of atm.

cheers

matt

lol everythin m-spec part from front bar lol

had a gtr bar

and matt 971 i still got boot plastics and stock cooler core.

give me a call on the number i posted and we can work out a price for the stuff u want, i'll do a deal 4 ya

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...