Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in the process of building my RB30DET, but am unsure what pistons to use. I'm using an RB25DE Neo Head. Has any got any info on RB30E, RB30ET, RB25DET, RB25DE, RB26DETT pistons, specifically deck heights and dome / dish cc volumes.

The Neo head has a smaller combustion chamber volume, which with the standard RB30E pistons it'll give me 10.45:1 compression ratio.. well that's what i've worked out :banana:

I'd love to know from someone that's built an RB30DET with a Neo Head what pistons they used and what CR they have.

Thanks.

im doing the same thing but with a NEO RB25DET. I would assume the cc on a turbo/na head would measure the same? The work shop is using CP pistons designed for the rb25/30 33 head. I wonder how they are going to get the desired comp ratio, being that its a smaller cc? And can anyone confirm if the neo exhaust valves are larger then the rb26?

I'm pretty sure the heads are the same bar the cams.

Pistons are what determines the compression ratio on the RB25's isn't it?

Yup, both RB25 neo heads cc around 50-51cc, both RB25 R33 Head are around 63cc.

The only difference in turbo and no turbo neo heads is the cams. Even the valve springs are the same (I thought they'd be different).

Good luck to me trying to find RB30ET pistons in NZ :glare:

im doing the same thing but with a NEO RB25DET. I would assume the cc on a turbo/na head would measure the same? The work shop is using CP pistons designed for the rb25/30 33 head. I wonder how they are going to get the desired comp ratio, being that its a smaller cc? And can anyone confirm if the neo exhaust valves are larger then the rb26?

I would be asking the workshop what they plan to do about this, as it will end up with around 10.5:1 compression

the pistons have been delivered and sent off to enginering along with rods crank etc. I mentoined that the head had smaller cc but i am no mechanic and want to interfer with their jobs. But there are other ways to bring down the comp ratio? Eg: head gasket size and decking of head and block?

Also any particular reason why nissan designed the head to be smaller cc? disadvantages/advantages?

Edited by drgnball34
the pistons have been delivered and sent off to enginering along with rods crank etc. I mentoined that the head had smaller cc but i am no mechanic and want to interfer with their jobs. But there are other ways to bring down the comp ratio? Eg: head gasket size and decking of head and block?

Also any particular reason why nissan designed the head to be smaller cc? disadvantages/advantages?

decking of head and block will increases comp ratio. Removing quench / squish areas in the head will decrease comp ratio (but has associated advantages and disavantages depending on application and in some instances induce knock at lower timing values than the higher comp high quench setup). see below pic of 26 head with quench area removed;

post-34927-1201529808_thumb.jpg

IMO if this workshop is worth their salt they will get a burette and cc the chambers first up . I think it would be highly irresponsible to build a customers engine with aftermarket pistons and not be certain what the static compression ratio was going to be .

Just for the record I'm sure many here would like to KNOW for certain if R33 and R34 chambers are same or different volume . It sounds like some are guessing without knowing for sure .

Cheers A .

So if im running a Neo head (series two stageas run Neos) i should run the RB30ET pistons from ACL, but use say a 1.5mm head gasket to drop the compression?

I will be running a max of 15-17 PSI, through a largish turbo. Aiming for 350kw with supporting mods.

I would do that with maybe a 1.2mm H/G, dont drop the comp much as youll mess with the piston/head clearnace. BUT you need to cc everything, dont go on what ive said, as rb30et pistons vary, and the head may have been decked(mine or yours) at some time which will effect the result.

I am using ACL RB30ET pistons - comp ratio is 8.5:1 with Std Nissan Headgasket.

I am about to build a new bottom end as I want more compression, so will be using Cp pistons.

CP make 2 pistons for the RB30/25/26 ( With R33 head ). So there 8.2:1 piston will come in very close to 9.0:1 with the NEO head - Ill cc everything to confirm but current calculations are around 9.0:1.

I am using ACL RB30ET pistons - comp ratio is 8.5:1 with Std Nissan Headgasket.

I am about to build a new bottom end as I want more compression, so will be using Cp pistons.

Any reason why you want more compression?

Is the car a bit of a dog off boost even though its a 3l?

I want to built one, but I'm not sure what compression I would run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...