Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just ran a bleed valve with my gate.

Ideally your gate spring should be as close to the boost you want, and then you dont need a EBC at all as the wastegate is doing it job correctly by regulating the boost off the spring.

If you have a 10psi spring, and run 20psi boost, your going to have it gate creeping in almost every gear

Sorry but this just isn't the case. While I agree it is a good idea to run as close a spring as your desired boost level, your comment implies that the gate won't open at all until the spring pressure boost level is reached. This isn't how it works in reality.

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sorry but this just isn't the case. While I agree it is a good idea to run as close a spring as your desired boost level, your comment implies that the gate won't open at all until the spring pressure boost level is reached. This isn't how it works in reality.

Thats exactly what i was thinking. I thought the job of the ebc was to keep the gate closed until it reaches the boost pressure you want and then open it up.

BTW is the eboost2 dual solenoid?

Mike.

Thats exactly what i was thinking. I thought the job of the ebc was to keep the gate closed until it reaches the boost pressure you want and then open it up.

BTW is the eboost2 dual solenoid?

Mike.

That's not exactly how you'd set it up in the real world but you're on the right track. In general most people set the Gate Pressure value a couple of pound below the Set Point (boost level) they're after. I'm speaking 'Turbosmart-speak' but you get the idea. Not opening the gate until you get to your desired final boost level can create spiking as the gate opens too late to control the rapidly rising boost level. In a perfect world the situation you describe would be the idea though.

eBoost2 uses a single solenoid. I have superior boost control since using an eBoost2 than when I ran a Blitz Dual SBC although the difference is probably in the settings. Don't get caught up in the whole two solenoids deal.

im pretty sure 220kw is never goin to get u into the high 12's, im pretty sure u will need at least 300kw with some nice semi slicks to pull somethin in the 12's with a 33. unless u gut ur car. my car made 209rwkw, i got a 2.01 60ft time with 265/35/18 federal 595 tyres and still only managed to get a 14.01. i could of probably got a 13.9 or a lil lower with the stock rims with some nice street tyres.

im pretty sure 220kw is never goin to get u into the high 12's, im pretty sure u will need at least 300kw with some nice semi slicks to pull somethin in the 12's with a 33. unless u gut ur car. my car made 209rwkw, i got a 2.01 60ft time with 265/35/18 federal 595 tyres and still only managed to get a 14.01. i could of probably got a 13.9 or a lil lower with the stock rims with some nice street tyres.

what MPH did you run this time at?

thats more like our skylines times, however for 210rwkw i would expect a better time. Depends on your MPH though?

im pretty sure 220kw is never goin to get u into the high 12's, im pretty sure u will need at least 300kw with some nice semi slicks to pull somethin in the 12's with a 33.

Nope. R33 GTST, full weight 3240lbs (1472kg), five-speed manual, std turbo and normal mods, just like most on the road.

190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.81 60', 12.799 @ 108mph, regular shitty old Falken Ziex rubbish

190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.73 60', 12.666 @ 107mph, Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials (drag radials)

Nope. R33 GTST, full weight 3240lbs (1472kg), five-speed manual, std turbo and normal mods, just like most on the road.

190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.81 60', 12.799 @ 108mph, regular shitty old Falken Ziex rubbish

190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.73 60', 12.666 @ 107mph, Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials (drag radials)

I have no idea how you guys get those kinds of times, but they sound extremely unrealistic most places. I reckon a high 13 at ~103mph with 190-195rwkw and maybe a low 13 with MickyT drag radials would be a decent target with a decent driver etc in any tracks/dynos I have come to know.

1.81 60ft on shitty road tires just messes with my head - I have no idea what you did there. Are you running 90:10s etc?

I have no idea how you guys get those kinds of times, but they sound extremely unrealistic most places. I reckon a high 13 at ~103mph with 190-195rwkw and maybe a low 13 with MickyT drag radials would be a decent target with a decent driver etc in any tracks/dynos I have come to know.

1.81 60ft on shitty road tires just messes with my head - I have no idea what you did there. Are you running 90:10s etc?

They're as realistic as the timeslip they're printed on, mate. They don't 'sound' like anything because they're a fact of life. I was running the same mph and exactly the same setup but 14.3's once upon a time - it's all about practice. I must have 5 or 600 timeslips from this car in boxes and folders lying around the place so don't write-off the benefit of getting to know your car and trying things.

The suspension is the full Whiteline kit - hard as buggery and zero adjustment to help launching.

the boy is correct, keep a good eye on that clutch, you are running it at its upper power limit.

Have had them fitted to many a customer car making mid 200kw, ask much more of them and they turn.

Jim berry Race Clutch........

i doubt it. i should be able to realise if its slipping. it puts the power down in every gear. im thinking its got more to do with it dropping a bit of boost going into 3rd gear.

I actually brought the clutch off andrew and he told me it would be fine for 270rwkw.

Will probably change cams and get a boost controller for it to see if i can bring the boost on a little earlier.

Mike.

Lol i wouldnt call a the falkens shitty if they are getting you a 1.8 60ft!!!!!

Do you guys run on prepped tracks (with the glue to help launches?)

Our tracks up here are far below par of that down south and therefore i think thats why our times suffer alot more then down south. Add in the heat etc, QLD sucks!

Lol i wouldnt call a the falkens shitty if they are getting you a 1.8 60ft!!!!!

Do you guys run on prepped tracks (with the glue to help launches?)

Our tracks up here are far below par of that down south and therefore i think thats why our times suffer alot more then down south. Add in the heat etc, QLD sucks!

1.8 sucks compared to low 1.6's, man. That's half a second in the deep end.

The track is glued but it really makes stuff all difference with poor tyres. It's all about practice. Everyone seems to think that just because their car makes XXXhp that they should be able to run XX seconds all day. It's just not so.

However as mentioned earlier, I personally have an internal wastegate - the reason I had not bothered with any other kind of boost control is that I thought the gate should close enough to do its job. Apparently I was well wrong, Cubes runs a similar internal gate setup and gets similar - before it reaches its sprung pressure it creeps open and slows the rate it builds the last few psi quite severly.

i meant external gate :P

internal gates are a different story

im pretty sure 220kw is never goin to get u into the high 12's, im pretty sure u will need at least 300kw with some nice semi slicks to pull somethin in the 12's with a 33. unless u gut ur car. my car made 209rwkw, i got a 2.01 60ft time with 265/35/18 federal 595 tyres and still only managed to get a 14.01. i could of probably got a 13.9 or a lil lower with the stock rims with some nice street tyres.

well i don't have as much experience as 2rismo and i'm a pretty average driver, i've been to like 3 different dyno days with my current setup and it showed figures from 220-230rwkw.

check my sig for mid to high 12's

i reckon if you got yourself a set of nice light 16" rims you'll be pulling better times those 18" wheels are HEAVY AS.

1.8 sucks compared to low 1.6's, man. That's half a second in the deep end.

The track is glued but it really makes stuff all difference with poor tyres. It's all about practice. Everyone seems to think that just because their car makes XXXhp that they should be able to run XX seconds all day. It's just not so.

Yeh i know that, just wondering how you guys do it. Thats a cracker launch for up here, basically thats all the GTRs can pull with a great launch and hardly any spinnage. Up here those times just arent possible :blush:

Its just practice mate... I was doing 1.9 60ft's on 225 street tyres... so not large width by any means.

Its just knowing how much throttle, when and how to play the clutch... its like a balancing act between how much clutch/throttle.

As you dont just dial in 7000rpm and let the clutch go, you wont go anywhere :blush:

thats just the thing, with the correct tyre and pressure, you should be able to just dump it. thats how you get 1.7 & 1.6 sixty foot times. this is also y u break rear drive shafts. you should not be able to turn the tyres. when u start breaking driveline components, u know u are getting traction.

Its just practice mate... I was doing 1.9 60ft's on 225 street tyres... so not large width by any means.

Its just knowing how much throttle, when and how to play the clutch... its like a balancing act between how much clutch/throttle.

As you dont just dial in 7000rpm and let the clutch go, you wont go anywhere :D

Yeh i know its a balancing act. The funny thing is (and stupidly) as soon as the light drops I loose all of my planning and end up stuffing the launch haha. Ive only raced probably 15 times though, in two different cars. It will come to me, just gotta practice and be patient. I still havnt seen anyone get under 2 seconds on street tires! thats impressive!

Nismoid if your ever in Qld its your job to get my car to do at least a 2 second flat 60 lol!

Edited by Granthem
I have no idea how you guys get those kinds of times, but they sound extremely unrealistic most places. I reckon a high 13 at ~103mph with 190-195rwkw and maybe a low 13 with MickyT drag radials would be a decent target with a decent driver etc in any tracks/dynos I have come to know.

1.81 60ft on shitty road tires just messes with my head - I have no idea what you did there. Are you running 90:10s etc?

190-195rwkw doesnt equate to 103mph. You should be at least around the 106-107mph mark.

190-195rwkw doesnt equate to 103mph. You should be at least around the 106-107mph mark.

Yes it does. Depending on the track and dyno, I've got an pretty damn good "hit rate" on predicting ETs and trap speeds here. You guys just have weird reading dynos :ninja:

thats just the thing, with the correct tyre and pressure, you should be able to just dump it. thats how you get 1.7 & 1.6 sixty foot times. this is also y u break rear drive shafts. you should not be able to turn the tyres. when u start breaking driveline components, u know u are getting traction.

Well yeah i agree, on sticky tyres your going to get 1.6's, that's expected and big RPM launches.

If your using dedicated street rubber that isn't gonna happen and its a very fine line i found to get a sub 2 sec 60ft.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...