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hi most of you dont know me abo bob paul r33 and anty(guy with the almost pink burgandy r33 with the pimp my ride rims) i have a left hand drive r33 s2 40th annyversary edition let me list my mods

Haltech e6x

720cc injectors

tomei rods

cp pistons

gt3082r

tial wastegate

hks fmic

snow performance meth injection

arp bolts all around

1 3/4 turbo header

greddy intake mani(on its way)

port and polish

acl race bearings

STOCK OIL PUMP(thats right)

stock cams and gears

my own crank collar solution(dont ask wont tell, for fear of being laughed at)

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im in between a single 200 wet kit or a directport 250 nos kit

im planing on runing 25 psi on the street and 31 psi with race gas hopefully goin for 600 just on boost then a 200-250 shot just to give it an extra kick now i know you guys like to point out the flaws in every 1's project which is what im hoping for abo bob thinks it wont even start lol paul doesnt even talk to me anymore( he rarely ever did -shrug- ) lol so yea want to hear some feed back let me post some pics

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this is b4 i took her apart

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btw im not 1 of those gtr wanabes car came from nissanw ith the gtr wing midnight purple and it came from japan with gtr series 3 seats and a gtr dash im not complaining

Edited by ReganGTS25T
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If your running the stock oil pump - which is just plain madness...

Why would you need a crank collar?

Being the stock pump will go on the stock crank ...

well the snout is too short so thier is too little contact surface between the drive and the oil pump i did a half ass fix goin to see how it works out

i would be more concerned about head lifting and and main caps walking ... before you put the sump on fit some ARP main studs or else the rods and so forth are a wasted excersise, also fit a head stud kit.. Dont worry too much about some of the knockers on here as many have zero hands on (except keyboard) experience and just regurgitate other people's posts and assume its gospel. You will however have some hurdles and lessons learnt along the way, 800hp at the fly is beyond your equipment.....especially the head (just read its std) but half the fun is trying and learing along the way....

Nos, i like it and provided your sensible with your application is as safe as houses. i had 150hp going through this cast pistoned engine (full budget build) for 2 years and about 30 refills... pushed it to a 12.2 (119mph) from a 4.2l (fastest 253 back in the day)

On your application and desired hp (250) i would definately go direct port, 200hp through a wet system is borderline even the 150hp kit i fitted to the 1uz soarer and NA z32 had distribution problems.

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Nice effort man. Not really a related question but how many skylines do you see over there and whats the price to get them into the country.

welll thier is only 1 gtr thier are a couple r33 turbos and 1 er34 gtt thier is 1 r32 but its a gts none turbo and were puting an rb26 in an r34 4 door engine is proly goin to be at around 450hp, i bought mine for 12,000 usd not in bad shape just umm badly maintained, slipped timing belt,bent fuel rail, 3 injectors were not working, the ecu was malfunctioning, suspension was shot, and the paint on the hood was messed up, the intercooler had a couple holes in it, had a fuel pump from a 1.3 liter na car, its been a little hectic but it has paid off at the end, my friends er34 cost him 26k usd but it was a grade 4.5 and he imported it him self

uras thanks allot for your comments, yea forrums are the same anywhere in the world you kinda get used to it, soo you say with some arp main bolts itll get the job done, any other concerns?? btw check your pms

Regan

well the snout is too short so thier is too little contact surface between the drive and the oil pump i did a half ass fix goin to see how it works out

Maybe you should just do it properly man, why do something like that on an engine that your going to chase that much power with?

Also you will find you probably didn't have to do this anyway as Nismoid said.

Maybe you should just do it properly man, why do something like that on an engine that your going to chase that much power with?

Also you will find you probably didn't have to do this anyway as Nismoid said.

well i say half assed cause it cost me very little but i know it will work so im cool with it, either way why buy an n1 or a jun pump, 1 the n1 pump wont cut it either way an n1 pump is the same shit as an oem pump and the jun pump costs more then a dry sump setup, im pretty sure ill be ok in the lubrication dept so thats not a worry, how fast do you guys think ill get on just boost around 600 hp on hoosier drag slicks line locker and antilag, and please dont tell me how my stock drivetrain is goin to break in a million pieces ill fix it as it goes breaking peruvian mechanics are surprisingly resourceful, youd be surprised the creativity that poverty creates shit i know i was

for example my friend has a 460 rwhp 1981 celica with a 1jz mated with an rx7 twin turbo tranmision mated back to the stock rear irs and diferential, and instead of having cv's he had little drive shafts made to fit his differential, thing holds amazingly, creativity man its something money cant buy >P and its not bolt on

and in no way am i saying aussies arent creative ive seen some crazy aussie project cars seriously allot of respect for you guys, but ive just seen so many projects shot down b4 they got off the ground cause of forum bashing, lol /rant off sorry guys just how i feel

Edited by ReganGTS25T
and the jun pump costs more then a dry sump setup,

who spun that? maybe im outta the loop but i can get a jun pump for under a grand but have no chance of doing a dry sump arrangement for under a grand.... maybe my supplier is jibbing me :rolleyes:

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