Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Id suggest a remap would be the better option

more of a "complete" tune compared to a piggyback.

Fuel Pump is DIY - see the DIY Thread Guide.

Id recommend a Bosch 040 or 044 fuel pump.

Id recommend a Nismo FPR (dont use a rising rate regulator)

or in lieu of the FPR Im pretty sure you can upgrade your RB20 310cc(?) injectors to stock GTR items, 444cc

I dont want much more power, but want a better tune

hence Im awaiting delivery of Deatschwerks 550cc injectors from the states

got a HKS heavy duty actuator, got a set of Splitfire coilpacks, and a R34 GTT PowerFc with boost control kit

all ready to be re-wired up and tuned, just awaiting the injectors, and oh the ca$h too !!

might even piggyback the Power-fc onto the stagea ecu

Id suggest a remap would be the better option

more of a "complete" tune compared to a piggyback.

Fuel Pump is DIY - see the DIY Thread Guide.

Id recommend a Bosch 040 or 044 fuel pump.

Id recommend a Nismo FPR (dont use a rising rate regulator)

or in lieu of the FPR Im pretty sure you can upgrade your RB20 310cc(?) injectors to stock GTR items, 444cc

I dont want much more power, but want a better tune

hence Im awaiting delivery of Deatschwerks 550cc injectors from the states

got a HKS heavy duty actuator, got a set of Splitfire coilpacks, and a R34 GTT PowerFc with boost control kit

all ready to be re-wired up and tuned, just awaiting the injectors, and oh the ca$h too !!

might even piggyback the Power-fc onto the stagea ecu

I have a brand new one that I didn't use if you get stuck.

Agreed with simon about the FPR.

Im also using one as an interim measure.

Will be getting injectors wwhen I do a big(ish) power upgrade in 6 months or so.

HKS 2535, Tomeii Cams, SARD injectors, 044 external pump and surge tank, forward facing plenum, new cooler arrangement, twin plate clutch and RB25 Gearbox.

Going to run the setup I have for a while, as I need to setup the car (has never been driven with this setup (all new sus etc) plus I need to learn how to drive full stop :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014:

And agreed about some engines being freaks.

My RB20 Makes 180 at the wheels on 8psi, with only a FMIC, straight pipes and fuel pump. Stock ECU, stock enjectors stock everything. Using a RB25 wastegate too. Seen a lot of 25 upgraded 20's make the same power on 10 - 12 psi and with a remap.

heres the FACTS kids...

STOCK injectors and on an RB20 will see you at aroiund 220-225 rwkw before your on the very limit, thats with a stock FPR.

On an RB25 with a Malpassi FPR jeff and i made 283 rwkw with STOCK injectors.. and still had headroom (not much) this was on 20 psi.. we backed it off to 16 psi and made 265 rwkw, still stock injectors and a very safe mix... this is what ive been running for 3 months now and its nuts!

yes it does... cause theres no way in hell a stock FPR will do 283 rwkw on stock injectors.. By upping the rail pressure you are forcing more fuel through an injector... however the pump, injectors, lines and o rings are all at greater risk.

so im upgrading the injectors and backing the FPR right or or swapping back to stock... and not aiming for more power, just reliability.

ah k, wasnt sure if it would have a dramatic effect, or whether it might just be a small amount of fuel.

never just changed pump and reg. Always done injectors when I needed more fuel.

Will be changing my entire fuelling setup when I upgrade

yeah thats it.

the stock FPR can be "modded" with a pair of vice grips to raise the base fuel press.. its another common tuning trick that sounds dodgy but works...

however with all fuel pressure raising mods.. the ENTIRE map needs to be changed, this includes cold starts, idle, cruise etc to get the best economy as the FPR inscreases the pressure across the whole range... so just tuning the full loadf map will see it awesome up top but rich as hell down low.

yes it does... cause theres no way in hell a stock FPR will do 283 rwkw on stock injectors.. By upping the rail pressure you are forcing more fuel through an injector... however the pump, injectors, lines and o rings are all at greater risk.

so im upgrading the injectors and backing the FPR right or or swapping back to stock... and not aiming for more power, just reliability.

CORRECT, but only if the rail was not pressurized enough to start with, otherwise you can add another 10 or 20 psi into your rail and it won't push anymore through the injectors unless the ECU allows it.

im guessing with all this FPR talk i may need one if i want 250awkw

Like I said earlier steve, I've got a brand new adjustable Nismo fpr if you get stuck.

Unless your making massive killer wasps, a rising rate one is overkill and double or triple the price.

yeah but ive only made 187 awkw with fouled plugs on 9psi when it boosted higher plugs were cutting out i changed the plugs and runs sweet now but cant pay for power runs every week cause after few of those i could of paid for a tune

so @ what power level do i need one because bill @ ATS said the stock injectors run out of puff @ 230kw and Simon says upping the fuel he made 283

obviously also noit wanting things to go bang :no:

yeah but ive only made 187 awkw with fouled plugs on 9psi when it boosted higher plugs were cutting out i changed the plugs and runs sweet now but cant pay for power runs every week cause after few of those i could of paid for a tune

so @ what power level do i need one because bill @ ATS said the stock injectors run out of puff @ 230kw and Simon says upping the fuel he made 283

obviously also noit wanting things to go bang :no:

Don't know steve, I'd only be guessing.

Maybe speak to a few more tuners and go by the majority.

im guessing with all this FPR talk i may need one if i want 250awkw

get a tomei FPR cause they look like the stock 1 and fit in the same position un like the other ones that u have 2 attach 2 the engine bay and have 2 run hoses which u may get defected 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...