Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok people,

I have found a point of contact in the US who can ship parts to OZ within a week and for very cheap.

Speak to Jason and tell him i recommoneded you "Yianni"

He is a good guy, any part you want he can get. Just email him the part number you want and he will send you a paypal invoice to pay which happens instantly.

Here is his email: [email protected]

Thay are a company located in California they also have a website http://www.riversideinfiniti.com

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204527-you-want-parts-cheap-and-quick/
Share on other sites

This is the first paragraph from teh email i recieved when i sent an email to Jason's email address that i have previously used to source my parts:

Tony Nazzal <[email protected]>

Hello.

My name is Tony, I am taking over for Jason's online customers.

Jason will no longer be working with us unfortunately.

Its a shame as Jason was very good with costomer service as well as giving us great prices. Will see if Tony can live up to the high standard or it might be a bit of a blow for us all..

sincw you guys are buying from them - how are they translsating the car. they asked me for a USDM VIN when I rang them and this was the new parts guy as well.

if you have a 16 digit VIN can I grab it please. I want ot get a few bits for the OE cruise control that I'm researching. :)

actually if you're chasing disc rotors, see rs73 i bought RDA slotted rotors off him:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...de-t184642.html

Thanks mate justed PMed him got a very good price ? WazR32Gtst did you get some disc rotors for your V35 ?

does this help, chris?

VIN: JNKCV54E43M212543

from a white 2003 G35 coupe

how did i get it you ask? thinking outside the box...!

also chris, i'll be around between 7 and 730 on thurs, is this ok?

thats what I needed. Iwas going to go digging on ebay for one though I wasn't sure if they showed up.

ta.

time is fine - I'll be here.

I spoke to Jason a few days ago, he isn't leaving.

Also you might not notice this but i did. The third brake light located on the parcel shelf sometimes dims and it is sometimes brighter. They are a common problem in the 03, 04 models. Anyway i took the light out, very simple all you have to do is push forward on the back of the housing then up and out. 2 screws to remove the bar of LED's.

Anyway i took the bar of 6 LED'S out and hooked it up to car. I noticed that one of the resistors wasn't welded onto the circuit board properly. Very easy guys you will see that something is loose when you tap it.

Just letting you know because that bar of LED's is around $150 shipped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...