Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CAR: 89 R32 GTR.

Problem:

The bell shaped metal housing that is attached to the firewall and to the piping for the clutch fluid reservoir has torn and all fluid clutch fluid leaked out. tear is pretty severe, much like a can being opened, inside i see a coil/spring of some description wrapped around a large metalic line or bar.

Obviously the clutch doesnt really disengage anymore and the pedal feel is far from normal, having very little resistance for the first half when depressed, then having a very firm spot which when depressed further causes a "ping" sound and the pedal to skip/drop a few centimeters before becoming firm again.

Questions:

1. Has a fluid leak caused the tear or has the tear caused the fluid leak? (fluid levels were fine 2 weeks ago when last checked)

2. How hard is it to get this fixed? Costs estimate?

3. What is function of the bell housing?

Any help would be much appreicated and apologies for the noobness of my descriptions. Thanks in advance.

Edited by SandalsBoy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204771-hoping-for-some-advice/
Share on other sites

x2 need a pic? not sure if you are descripbing the master cylinder, brake booster or the recess in the firewall? or something else altogether?

Here it is. Hope this angle will be what you need. Thanks guys. Appreicate you taking the time to read.

dscn1191pi2.jpg

Picture aint working for me, but it sounds like the clutch master cylinder which is an easy fix.

Two bolts fix it the to firewall, one bolt to back of clutch pedal in the pedal box (this ones fiddly), and one hydralic line to clutch slave cylinder - thats for an Rb30 anyhow. Bleeding the clutch afterwards will be the most fun part of the job.

Paid $40 for mine, will be a bit more for a skyline

Picture aint working for me, but it sounds like the clutch master cylinder which is an easy fix.

Two bolts fix it the to firewall, one bolt to back of clutch pedal in the pedal box (this ones fiddly), and one hydralic line to clutch slave cylinder - thats for an Rb30 anyhow. Bleeding the clutch afterwards will be the most fun part of the job.

Paid $40 for mine, will be a bit more for a skyline

Thanks for the reply mate. Sounds less serious than it looks. Can anyone who can see the picture verify that this is what has happened?

that's the clutch booster, not the clutch master cylinder that has broken - no idea how you've managed that (you might want to take a pic of the pedal and bracket inside the car too, it might have broken first.

its a bit of a pain to change but you should be able to pick one up second hand they are pretty reliable.

If you go to wreckers you might need to tell them its the clutch booster twice - I think its a bit unusual to have vacuum boost for the clutch, most cars only have it for the brakes. Might as well do the master cylinder at the same time they are pretty cheap.

that's the clutch booster, not the clutch master cylinder that has broken - no idea how you've managed that (you might want to take a pic of the pedal and bracket inside the car too, it might have broken first.

its a bit of a pain to change but you should be able to pick one up second hand they are pretty reliable.

If you go to wreckers you might need to tell them its the clutch booster twice - I think its a bit unusual to have vacuum boost for the clutch, most cars only have it for the brakes. Might as well do the master cylinder at the same time they are pretty cheap.

Thanks Duncan, appreicate the advice :P

Yah, its unbelievable. I hadn't even known a clutch have a booster - Haa :P

Hrmm any theories about how this could happen? Wouldnt want to replace it then have it reoccur. Prefer to find the cause of the problem rather than just fix the symptoms.

Bare in mind that all the clutch fluid has leaked out also... not sure if makes a difference.

well I was wondering what the pedal looks like, the clutch bracket itself can break which means you might have been pushing at a wierd angle = broken booster. But I've never seen this before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...