Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

don't speak to Nissan.

Take it to a mechanic.

NOT nissan dealership.

doe sit idle fine when warm on flat ground?

auto or manual?

its manual and idles fine when on flat ground when warm but the reason i thought it is the fuel pump because it ran out of fuel and also shits its self above 4500 rpm is there anyway to check if it is the fuel pump

Edited by CHUCKIE821

hey mate,

not to sure considering ur info... but if its gut less and revs and makes all noise and no go... i'd say pump!

way to test is turn ur key on ACC, listen for ur pump 'should make a humming noise'.

one thing i didnt pickup when mine died.

if all doesnt help mate, take it to dyno place n get them to GET ur Air and Fuel Ratios

=) helps eliminate stuffs

hey mate,

not to sure considering ur info... but if its gut less and revs and makes all noise and no go... i'd say pump!

way to test is turn ur key on ACC, listen for ur pump 'should make a humming noise'.

one thing i didnt pickup when mine died.

if all doesnt help mate, take it to dyno place n get them to GET ur Air and Fuel Ratios

=) helps eliminate stuffs

i can only hear the humming noise when it is switch to on

Edited by CHUCKIE821

when you say warm do you mean the wheather or when your car warms up?

the wheather causes my car to idle to fluctuate and idle high when the wheather is cold, but when the wheather is hot its pretty much fine...

reason... from what iv been told is that the car was bought and tunned in sydney and bringing it to my neck of the woods where its colder alot of the time causes it to run like it does... has something to do with the denceness of the air, molicules etc.

been told it needs a light tune on the dyno, havent yet got round to doing or atleast get it checked out.

when you say warm do you mean the wheather or when your car warms up?

the wheather causes my car to idle to fluctuate and idle high when the wheather is cold, but when the wheather is hot its pretty much fine...

reason... from what iv been told is that the car was bought and tunned in sydney and bringing it to my neck of the woods where its colder alot of the time causes it to run like it does... has something to do with the denceness of the air, molicules etc.

been told it needs a light tune on the dyno, havent yet got round to doing or atleast get it checked out.

when it warms up it idles good but could my fuel pump be stuffed cause it ran out of fuel

could be a range of things. like said earlier take it to a mechanic. no one gonna tell ya the problem cos it could be a range of things, especially from what you have explained. also wher u located?

good luck with it all.

brisbane

#)(#(%) I hate posts like this.

Go to a mechanic.

I'm on another forum where a dude posts "I've got this pain in my chest, what should I do?!?!" I think Darwinism should have taken it's course there but someone told him the appropriate party to visit :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
×
×
  • Create New...