Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Same steps as I said in a couple of posts before.. :D

So....

this post

I bought my 34 from QLD.... and kept the QLD rego mush easier haha
really makes no sence as in the long run, you gotta do what you originally said! :(
So....

this post really makes no sence as in the long run, you gotta do what you originally said! :yes:

Yea but it gives you a bit of time to save up for rego.

Speaking of it all I need to find out what it's going to cost me for a blue slip for my bike and the whole shabang..

it's a piece of piss. just like registering an imported car for the first time, or a new car even.

get blue slip ($120)

get green slip ($400)

pay stamp duty (3% of sale price)

Pay rego (I forget, maybe $200)

get 'randomly' selected for a Vehicle Identity Check (they make you pay for it too which sucks. $30)

now enjoy your newly, NSW registered car. :yes: Total cost of first rego is about $1,000 and up (depends on the stamp duty component as to how far up...)

  • 1 year later...

Apologies for bumping an old thread, but I couldn't see the sense in starting a new one.

I'm possibly going to be moving back to NSW hopefully by the end of the year (work permitting) and would soon be faced with the dilemma of reregistering a car in NSW.

From what I've read thus far, QLD Engineer's Cert counts for squat in NSW? How much does it cost to get one issued in NSW?

My R34's had a turbo conversion done, 3" turboback exhaust, apexi pod fully enclosed, 30mm lowered king springs, 18x8 wheels, brake upgrade using R33 GTSt Brakes and ADR Approved lines, GReddy Profec B Spec II, GReddy eManage Blue.

My concern if I move back down, is basically getting pulled up for this "random check" and gett assraped for mods.

My car isn't what I'd consider to be heavily modified, not like my cars dropped on its guts with a big look-at-me body kit and atmo BOV... but I'm not sure how it would be seen in the eyes of the RTA and wouldn't want to run into any costly and moreso inconvenient problems when moving back.

I'm not overly fussed on rego, my rego expires in December a few days after i'm on an open licence so I won't be missing out on much there provided I can move back by Christmas.

Any idea on how NSW handles the expiries on licence transfers? When I moved to Queensland they basically took the time I had left on my licence and added it to my Queensland licence, and for a relatively small amount I was able to extend the time to June 2010. No stupid licence fees and card fees etc... I'm hoping that NSW would do the same with the expiry.

I know that at some stage I'm best to speak to the RTA, but it's always good to know the experience of others, particularly when it comes to modified imports.

OMG513 - Ken I think it is, is having dramas with a modded r33 gtst from qld to here.

He started a thread before, somewehre here in NSW general, could be worth a read or a pm to him.

I bought my mx5 from QLD, and yeah, the QLD engineer/mod plate wont mean anything here :(

Cheers Chris, found the thread you were talking about... he's got an R33 with roll cage and Rb26 swap etc... mine's not quite that modified lol Because I've spent so much on labour and tuning, my concern is not having to revert back to stock...

I've only done a bolt-on conversion with an R33 GTSt turbo, used R33 GTSt brakes with ADR approved lines, custom turbo back exhaust.. the only things really aftermarket is the exhaust, eManage Blue (required to make sure everything runs correctly), GReddy Profec B Spec II, Walbro fuel pump, king springs (30mm lowered) and whiteline swaybars and misc whiteline suspension bushings, FMIC Kit, apexi pod (enclosed). I'm not making mega killerwasps of power, everythings plumbed in, no oil catch cans or breathers, try to keep most things standard-ish... even have gauges mounted on the side of the console so they aren't in a defectable area.

I've just invested a lot of time and money into doing the conversion and tuning to not want to risk any problems when tfring back... besides the fact that i don't have all of my old parts.

Edited by N-DAWG

Well I just gave the RTA a call and spoke to technical inquiries and got a LOT of good help!!

QLD issued engineers certs are not accepted in NSW, UNLESS, it's on their list of approved signatories. Refer this list here: http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...s_june_2009.pdf

Basically, if it's an approved signatory, then you just need to make sure the report is in that format acceptable to NSW standards. Take that report and original import docs to get a blueslip and done, is what I've been assured.

So now all I need to do is make sure that it will pass engineer approval with one of these approved signatories and it should be all good... I'll probably get a resonator fitted to my exhaust to quieten it down, and do something about not having a washer bottle first, but if I do go ahead with the move at least I have somewhere to start from in QLD to ensure I don't have problems with NSW accepted engineer's certs.

I suppose it's still questionable to a cop when getting pulled over as to the validity of the Queensland issued mod plate even if you tell them its on the list of approved signatories...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...