Jump to content
SAU Community

Got Bored Then Productive

nikr33turb

By nikr33turb,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

nikr33turb Collaborator

nikr33turb

Posted
Posted (edited)

Alright got the day off and decided to do some work on my skyline...heres what i did:

Put a vent in the bonnet (mainly for looks but hey might help keep things cool)

re-sprayed the front grill.

re-sprayed alot of the interior.

I think it came up alright, let me know ur thoughts : )

Oh and with the vent yeah i know its frowned upon but i havnt touched any support bars just the top sheet.

post-40914-1203658192_thumb.jpg

post-40914-1203658297_thumb.jpg

post-40914-1203658324_thumb.jpg

post-40914-1203658346_thumb.jpg

Edited by nikr33turb
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207251-got-bored-then-productive/
Share on other sites
75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

with your bonnet vent won't the edges of the sheet metal just rust now or did you seal it as well...?

Your pretty game cutting into your bonnet like that I wouldn't have the guts knowing what it would cost to replace.

Its right above your air intake and I'm guessing your have a pod filter, yes, what happens when it rains? unless of course you have your pod enclosed but then why would you need an intake there....

I have a vented fibreglass bonnet with a vent near the airintake like that but its not flat, it would only get water in when moving and then it has a bit of a draining area.... I can't imagine how much water would get in if left out in the rain like that....then you have a wet pod...

interior looks ok... but woah that grill.... I dunno

hazerb30 Collaborator

hazerb30

Posted
Posted

^ agree with above

Yeh i hoped you sealed the edges cos its gonna rust. And its going to get water into your pod if you have one. Dont see that it would keep under bonnet temps down at all in that position. Perhaps if you just want the look you could seal up underneath somehow. i dunno. I give you credit for having the balls to cut your bonnet but its not something i would do.

Interior plastics look cheap

Grill looks good to me.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

+1 for having the balls to chop up a perfectly good bonnet :D

you realise that vent isnt drawing any air in, right? its just flat, and all the air will flow right over it. so the only real benefit is that some hot air might escape through it. but then being where it is, and such a small area, i doubt it.

nikr33turb Collaborator

nikr33turb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah ive sealed all the edges and have a cover that just goes over the top of the pod so rain shouldnt be a prob..and i want a carbon fibre bonnet so i figure if something does go wrong then i have a good excuse lol

NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted

It looks cool. Altho it looks weird with just a random vent, you should cut some more, or at least one on the other side, altho ur fuse box is there, so not a good thing. But it looks good, and that grill is so cool. Nice interior, I'm looking at doing something like that on the long weekend! Good work, I wouldnt have the balls to cut a perfectly good bonnet either!! Even if I was going to change it later on

infamous Enthusiast

infamous

Posted
Posted

Sorry to say, but that bonnet vent looks tacky. Obvious "backyard job".

If you wanted an excuse to splurge on the CF item,... you should of just invented one rather than hack into a perfectly good bonnet,.. but each to his own.

The front grill looks ok, you should get CF dash surrounds instead to match your future CF bonnet. Would look much better.

NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted

I don't agree. The interior matches the exterior, and draws it all together. But as you said, eash to their own.

Nick, do you have any close up photos of the interior painting? I'm interested to see how well it is, because everytime a car comes into work with painted highlights, it looks like shit! I want to do it myself, but being a perfectionist, it must be perfect!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...