Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On closer inspection Craig has a valid point. Looking at your pic the flap is off centre to the machined hole.

i second that, i would get him to increase the machined lip around the gate hole just to be sure, i reckon the left hand side is sitting up on the rough casting... not in the machined ring.

what waste gate actuator are you running?

is it the stock 8 psi one?

maybe try a heavier one say 18psi.

also with the flapper would it be possibe to do a 3 angle valve grind on it to increase the seating area?

here are some pics

**EDIT** sorry should've added i know it is leaking as i can hear it on the screamer pipe, and when i put my hand over the screamer pipe (can feel gasses) to create a seal the exhaust note changes slightly...

are you using a dump gasket? ie a ford xr6 gasket?

that seperates the wheel from the gate?

the turbo housing is divided into two section completely sep from each other

on the turbo side of the dump it has a smaller pipe weld into it so when fitted upto the turbo it pushes inside and seals even more

his using a copper crush gasket

the actuator seems to be wrong for the application seeing as you cant preload the crap out of it

at full tight it is maybe half a cm away from the arm at the arms full closed postion

this would also mean you'd have to bleed off a yeap of air via the boost controler to get the correct boost

(assuming its not running close the boost level you want just using the arm as it is)

I say buggar it and run it up again

The std screw on bit for the actuator that came with my gt3076 was too short; I had a longer one made up.

I have around 2mm preload which grabs 15psi and with the actuator at full reach allows the flap to open almost 90degree's.

2mm is approximately what the std turbo and std actuator has factory.

If you place too much preload you will experience boost creep as the for every extra mm preload you place on the gate you loose with the max opening angle.

Starting to go a little OT but what the hell. :D

The only downside with very little preload is especially with the garrett 1bar actuators with the kink in the rod is they are lazy. With just the actuator I was seeing 8psi at 2500rpm, 11psi at 3000rpm and then 15psi at 4500rpm.

With a cheap ball/spring bleeder on it it was making 19psi at 3100rpm. Thats a huge improvement in peak boost. ~1400rpm.

For myself I was told the GT30's will boost creep if you don't run with a Bell mouth or at least put some effort in to the dump pipe and design it as HKS do.

HKS have created the opening of the wastegate pipe as large as possible; this allows maximum gas flow with no hard edges for the gas to hit.

The problem with the usual 3" and 2" wastegate style dump with the GT30's is when the flap opens it is unable to open a full 90degree's which would allow the full 2" opening of the wastegate pipe to be utilized; when its open say 45degree's with reasonable preload it partially blocks that 2" opening which is why these style dumps almost always boost creep with the GT30's.

I followed the advice of who does the tuning on my car and with the std sized flapper but with a .8 rear I experience zero boost creep on the 3ltr by running minimal preload and a nice open bell mouth. Yes with out a boost controller boost is lazy but who cares thats what an ebc is for.

HKS dump opening attached.

All IMO. :)

post-382-1203905728_thumb.jpg

i ordered a 14psi actuator - so i assume that is what it is.

i'm not trying to solve the response issue etc at the moment. just eliminate the leaking - i'm coming to the belief that it possibly doesnt seal when the flap sometimes seals in a different position. (flap not fixed position)

i'm under the impression that 'if' i didn't go for the screamer setup then i wouldn't even be aware of the leaking issue...

*sighs...

Edited by huddy

plan G

grab a g clamp or similar contraption and clamp the sucker shut.

if you remove the actuator arm at the pivot point and then wiggle the flapper to see if you can feel a happy spot where it wants to shut, then clamp it shut.

this then will prove if its the gate the actuator or the dump design.

i have a sneeking suspicion that is not the wastegate but the main outlet not sealing properly.

due to not using a ford gasket.

this copper gasket you mention is something you made or the cheap crap you get from an exhaust shop.

also have you had the dump flange milled flat?

come to think about it im not sure why the dump needs the peice of pipe welded on the flange as its a different hole to the wastegate you just need a propper gasket.

thanks for all the brainstorming guys :)

on that last sentence - i agree and originally it did not have the pipe welded onto the flange... but it was leaking so first thoughts was 'must be the dump design..'

the gasket was provided by and has been used by the exhaust maker (Andrew) many times previously and had no problems whatsoever on many other setups (including screamers)

i will try the G Clamp idea to suss out if it is the actuator (i doubt it though as it's brand new, and has a LOT of tension on it already)

any more ideas for me to try??? :/

Just a quick question

How much should a wastegate flap actually open, i am using a hks 3037 pro s turbo kit which comes with the hks dump that Cubes posted a pic of, but i have noticed if i desconnect the actuator arm and try to open the wastegate flap using the part that the actuator rod clips onto i can only move it about 1cm untill it hits the dump pipe.

Does this sound normall?

Im sure it would be fine as HKS surely wouldnt have overlooked this and would have desinged the kit to work perfect.

thanks for all the brainstorming guys :D

on that last sentence - i agree and originally it did not have the pipe welded onto the flange... but it was leaking so first thoughts was 'must be the dump design..'

the gasket was provided by and has been used by the exhaust maker (Andrew) many times previously and had no problems whatsoever on many other setups (including screamers)

i will try the G Clamp idea to suss out if it is the actuator (i doubt it though as it's brand new, and has a LOT of tension on it already)

any more ideas for me to try??? :D

when the extra peice of tube was welded onto the dump flange was the flange milled flat?

the heat from welding it would have worped it to some degree.

and just so you know the ford xr6 gasket is stainless steel multi layer jobby that cost around $16

if your flange is flat and you run one of these you can completely remove it from the problem list.

Hi Dangerman

well once again i 'assumed' it was flat when the work was done...

...saying that though I JUST REFITTED IT ALL UP AGAIN...

and it is NOT leaking!

so i am completely clueless... as it seems to be inconsistent... i will keep an eye (or ear) on it to hear if it leaks again - if it does, then i'm thinking wastegate flap (when it rotates).

thanks, i will keep this thread updated.

being the waste gate is metal on metal it would either seal or not seal.

so im sticking with the dump not being 100% flat and this time you have stuck just the right amount of goop in the right spot to seal the turbine from the screamer.

glad its fixed either way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...