Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Just in the process of installing a rb26dett power fc into my rb20det and i have purchased a boost control kit and it has to plug into the standard boost solenoid. After a bit of a look around the engine bay i have found this thing with JECS written on it. I looked at a non turbo rb20 and it didnt have it so its looking good so far. Am i correct, is this the solenoid im after?

Also wondering if anyone knows whether or not the rb26dett and rb20det have the same plug on the solenoid?

thanks

post-39806-1204538244_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208787-standard-rb20-boost-solenoid/
Share on other sites

the pfc kit is meant to plug into the standard boost solenoid... has anyone with a rb20det and rb26dett pfc ever fitted the boost control kit? I havent got it yet its on its way, and computer is only half in, so i dont know which plugs come with it but im trying to sort it out befor i get it so its easy smoothe intallation

yeah but i think i might have a problem, as fc and boost control kit is designed for a rb26 it should plug into standard 26 solenoid... but i wonthave one.. hmmm

any other thoughts?

I got no idea what that thing is (isnt not present on a BNR32), I'd suggest that a metal box with only two thick wires going to it, isn't your boost solenoid :)

The boost kits comes with a solenoid, similar looking to the ones used in the AVCR and E-Boost setups; u don't use the original.

R32s don't have a boost solenoid as stated above

You should get one with the PFC boost controller kit and reroute waste-gate lines to run off the solenoid provided

That way you can wire the BC kit off that

No idea what that metal box is but when someone finds out can you tell me too please

do rb26's have a standard solenoid?? Cause the pfc bc kit is made for gtr33 same as my ecu. So it probably wont come with a solenoid if a 26 has a standard solenoid.

also that silver box, befor thinking it was a boost solenoid i think it might be a resister pack for something

Resistor pack - thats what i orig kinda thought.. but they have a lot more then 2 wires going into it, plus need boost lines as well :P

How ever much it will help, uploaded a picture from my BNR32... years ago, please don't laugh about it looking like Kosovo.

Stocko boost solenoid is to the right of the relay box, with boost lines going to it. I think R33's are the same.

med_gallery_14713_1542_144100.jpg

Edit:

do rb26's have a standard solenoid??

"Doh, posted b4 refresh'n - as above, I know R32 GTR's have em, i ignorantly, assumed all R32+ Skylines did :) ...

Regardless, outa my league but I'd say the boost solenoid comes with all PFC Boost kits... as this quote

"The high grade solenoid valve is the same one used in our Apexi Super AVC-R boost controller."

From This Link

Edited by GeeTR
This thing is a relay for the fuel pump if I'm not mistaken. It sends something like 9v to the fuel pump on idle, to minimize fuel consumption. U can tear it out. Nobody needs that.

Spot on its a resistor for the fuel pump.

yeah that silver box is for the rb20det injectors.

Na its not, maybe your getting confused with the resistor pack the GTR run, they look similar but RB20 don't use them as the injectors are high impedance anyways

This thing is a relay for the fuel pump if I'm not mistaken. It sends something like 9v to the fuel pump on idle, to minimize fuel consumption. U can tear it out. Nobody needs that.

hmm so what happens if you rip it out, 0v at idle or full 12v at idle?

While I'm here, does any PFC boost controller kit work with any PFC?

I have an AP Engineering RB20 PFC and I don't even want to thinking about looking for/finding a BC kit to suit that.. was hard enough finding the PFC it self

Eg: Would an R32 GTR BC kit work on my AP Engineering RB20 PFC?

:laugh:

Na its not, maybe your getting confused with the resistor pack the GTR run, they look similar but RB20 don't use them as the injectors are high impedance anyways

hmm so what happens if you rip it out, 0v at idle or full 12v at idle?

The car will start then stall if you have it unplugged, so i'd suggest 0 at idle. Technically you have a break in the circuit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...