Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking about drilling a hole through the tweeters covers and running the wire through down the pillar, anyone done this, Also this may see like a silly question but do you need specific output to tweeters from the stereo as mine are not currently working and I though they would just branch off from the front speaker wires?????

Thank Ben

Edited by cefiro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208938-boost-gauge-wires-through-tweeters/
Share on other sites

I wouldn't go drilling anything just on principle but I assume you could do it, but remember there are the actual speakers to get past with the wires (would there be any 'noise' interference having the wiring so close?)

My boost gauge wire/hose come through the air vent on top of the dash, this leads through a grommet through the firewall too so there was no drilling required.

Your tweeters should work, but I'm no expert, maybe it depends on your head unit?

  • 4 weeks later...

Done:I went through the tweeters and it turned out really well, I think anyway.

Remover Tweeter cover, then get the vac hose through by using a straightened up coat hanger (attached to vac hose) angled to get it into the foot well, then follow with the wires into the same area, and hooked then up to earth and lights. The best way I found to get the vac hose into the engine bay was to poke a hole in the grommet (located just above to the bonnet cable and to the right) by using the coat hanger from the engine bay into under the dash (not visa versa) and then sticky tape the hose onto the coat hanger and pull it into the engine bay. Cut into pressure sender at back on engine and tee in vac hose. I had to cut out the speaker cover and just cut one of the holes which was the perfect size for the vac hose and wires to get through. I hook up vac hose and wires into the gauge and bobs you uncle.

post-7417-1206604574_thumb.jpg

nice

never thought of that

my tweeters are disconnected, and I happen to have the same boost guage, in the same spot but with the lines/wires going up the side of the dash.

will give it a whirl one day

In a normal installation your tweeters should be connected to a small box known as the crossover..This box basically splits the sound between woofer and tweeter...SO the 2 wires that normally wire directly to speakers will go straight to the crossover, from that one pair will go to the woofer, the other pair go to tweeter.....hope that helps

I was reluctant to drill/cut any of my interior so I ran mine up through the weather strip and jammed them under the edge of the a pillar plastics.

Only problem I can see in the future is the boost line eventually pinching closed from the pressure, but its been working fine for a few weeks.

4-1.jpg

On the topic of boost gauges I fitted one yesterday to the steering column as it's below the top of the steering wheel, it's still easy to read and it's the straightest route for the vacuum line. Am I the only one who's done this?

IMG_9568.jpg

xmetal mine was like that when I got the car, didnt like it, set it back further into the dash, didint like it, so set it like rubba has.

out of the way (for my 2m height) perfectly, but yet right there.......

getting some overboost with wot. =(

just on the subject. i braught a boost gauge yesterday but it had a copper hose thing for the vacume pipe... how am i going to go connecting that to my stag?

Apparently there's a few vacuum plug somethings on the back of the plenum nearest to the firewall but i've plumbed mine into the front of the plenum running off the Fuel regulator line. Just a warning, make sure all the hoses are secured properly if you do it this way as it could get messy if comes undone and the FPR looses vacuum pressure.

  • 2 weeks later...
On the topic of boost gauges I fitted one yesterday to the steering column as it's below the top of the steering wheel, it's still easy to read and it's the straightest route for the vacuum line. Am I the only one who's done this?

IMG_9568.jpg

Thats how id be doing it. Looks neater, its out of the way, doesnt attract unwanted attention... im not a fan of dash mounted guages...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...