Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

watched a performance dvd the other week and there was a performance/race car on it that had a large intercooler in the back with twin thermo/cooling fans pulling air through intercooler.

i was thinking it is a good idea because it will always have cool air flowing through it.

when using fmic setup air gets forced into fmic while in motion, but if front mount has cooling fan pulling air through it would make intercooler more effective and efficiant...

saying all this if this is right, would putting a fan behind my fmic (pulling) create more of a gain? especially at standstill when intercooler is not getting air forced into it.

any info will be great or if anyone else has any other ideas will be a bonus.

4drftn

yeah sh@un is right, no gains to be had

it was probably a radiator/cooler combo at the rear because they'd run out of room at the front, the fans were probably just to push air through because it'd be lacking the wind you get from the front of the car

spend a little time making some foam air guides (or a nice metal guide if you have the skills with the material) for between the intercooler and radiator so the air doesn't 'spill' making the standard fan setup work more efficiently.

sorry i may have not explained myself well, but i am already running viscous fan+12inch cooling fan infont of my radiator pushing air into it...

now... what im actually trying to find out is benifits from having a pulling fan on the back of an intercooler or fmic, in other words trying to get more air and cooler air into intercooler to maybe produce more power etc.

sorry for the confusion

4drftn

i have seen this done, it was set up to come on when the intake temps go up to a certain temp, only really usefull and low speeds or stopped when there is not enough air flow over the fmic.

Id start with measuring your actual intake temps, take a common, do some plots over time, otherwise your just faping into a carrot cake.

Water spray while standstill i find isn't soo effective (well not as much as Id want it to be) The water itself isn't cooling the IC, its the latent heat thats absorbed in the state change from liquid to gas (evaporation) Hence, without the air moving over it, kinda hindered.

Thermos and a water setup could work well me thinks, if you really need to prevent heat soak while standstill.

If state change heat absorption is your game, iv always been interested in those C02 IC sprayers. C02 is dirt cheap, and in 30s can have a ice covered IC when dead still. I had almost ordered one, but a change meant it wouldn't work with my setup.

Thinking aloud :/

EDIT: After getting some base figures, first try air guides first as mentioned - a must.

Edited by GeeTR

When the intercooler is working hardest is when you're in motion- meaning there's plenty of airflow already over the cooler.

water-->air intercooler would be the best upgrade, esp. for heatsoak issues, but it's not exactly a simple bolt-on upgrade like a regular fmic.

Airguides ftw, maximise airflow to the cooler. In the meantime you might want to put a fan behind the fmic and do some tests with a thermometer-type tool and see if the fan makes a difference to charge temps and cooler heatsoak temps.

Air -> Water IC's (what i think you meant) still needs a heat exchanger (rad like)

People use thermos on those heat exchangers... thermos on a Air -> Air should work just well maybe?

Try it, let us know :/

Edited by GeeTR

i think i most definatly will give it a go... aswell as air guides for maximum gain. does anyone have any pictures of an airguide they have customly made for there setup?

also how would i go about measuring the air intake temp/amount? will it be in ECU data?, i have a microtech LT-8 ECU, should i be able to access that sort of info?

cheers

Always wondered if 12 volt peltiers would be the go. Peltier runs on electricity gets hot one side and very cold other side smaller ones can cool cpu in computer so i imagine larger ones could be utilised in aiding to cool an fmic? just a thought

The short answer to this is : don't waste your time.

A properly ducted intercooler will take advantage of the high pressure built up at the front of the car when travelling at any reasonable speed.

This pressure build up will be more than any fan is capable of providing.

Hence installing such a fan is a waste of time.

But:

If your car is a GT-R it already has a fan installed to push air through the radiator. You can hear it click on when the car is sat idling on a hot day.

It is far, far easier to plumb in some water misting to spray the intercooler when the inlet temps go above a certain threshold. Why don't you look into that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...