Jump to content
SAU Community

Ready To Put In 272 Cams. What Supporting Mods?

335

By 335,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

335 Rising Star

335

Posted
Posted

Hello

I am putting HKS 272 cams into my '91 R32 GTS-T with 116000 Km on it. The car will be tuned and will have a bigger fuel pump and possibly a R33 turbo on it as well as a front mount. Should I replace the valve springs and lifters? Or should the stock ones be fine? Also what other mods should I do to support this? I want my engine to last at least 5 more years. I don't race but use my car as a daily driver. I will be going fast on the highway sometimes. Maybe Maybe I will take it to the track twice a year just to go faster.

Help :D

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

You might have wanted to do a bit of research before you bought those size cams because not only will you need some heavy duty valve springs,you whole head will need a good going over.

Valve springs,solid lifters and maybe abit of machining for that size cam to fit.

Good luck.

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

Pretty sure hks 272's have 10.2mm lift which will require head machining to clear the lobes, and hks step 2 valve springs. These cams are way overkill for the turbo you are running and are really 300rwkw + territory, my guess id you will lose power everywhere except at 6-8000rpm where you may gain 10-15rwkw, but the turbo will definately be the limiting factor.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

272 degree cams for a RB20 running a RB25 turbo is overkill and a waste of money. You will need solid lifters, springs and might as well do valves and guides to do it properly, the amount of money that is going to cost is a complete waste for such a small turbo. Should have gone 256's which are a direct bolt in and don't need anything replaced and would work a lot better with such a small turbo.

Edited by PM-R33
335 Rising Star

335

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hello

These cams were given to me, so I took them. They are HKS 272 degrees N2 with 8.53 lift. My mechanic said they should drop in. They are made for the RB 20. Came out of another 32.

So since they have 8.53 lift instead of the 10mm mentioned earlier, is this better? So can I use these without all the stuff having to be done as mentioned earlier? If I do keep these which turbo would be a appropriate turbo to use for these? If I get Tomeis should I get the pon cams or the pros?

Help please

r3240sx Enthusiast

r3240sx

Posted
Posted
I think RB26 with HKS or Tomei stroker kits match well with 272 cams :down:

I think You'll loose some low end using 272's over 256's, but with the same lift as the pon cams, these cams could be made to work. 8.5mm lift will not require any upgraded valve springs, lifters, or machine work. They will drop right in. However. You're idle might suck, and street performance will probably suffer. If I were you, I'd definately take the downsides to those cams for free, instead of spending $700 USD on a set of pon cams. I think if you had a set of adjustable cam gears, you could tune those cams well enough to work.

I put my pon cams in, and was suprised to find there's not much difference between these and stock. I think I got more midrange, more noise everywhere, and it pulls pretty well to redline. I didnt notice any change in idle or street driveablility. If the 256's are this mild, I dont think you'll have a problem with 16 degrees more duration, seems like a waste to toss those in favor of 16 less degrees. Just my 2 cents..

Good luck

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Mate with 272's on a p|ss tiny turbo, your going to have all round sh|t performance if you install these.

I highly doubt you'll see any top end increase as the RB25 turbo simply is NOT going to outflow the factory setup.

Cam gears, no cam gears... 272's are a pointless upgrade regardless of them being free or not.

RB20's are not big on low/mid range as it is, and all your going to do by installing silly cams is hurt whats already a sore point.

Sell them and buy something appropriate, or better yet, stick with factory and get a tune.

r3240sx Enthusiast

r3240sx

Posted
Posted
Mate with 272's on a p|ss tiny turbo, your going to have all round sh|t performance if you install these.

I highly doubt you'll see any top end increase as the RB25 turbo simply is NOT going to outflow the factory setup.

Cam gears, no cam gears... 272's are a pointless upgrade regardless of them being free or not.

RB20's are not big on low/mid range as it is, and all your going to do by installing silly cams is hurt whats already a sore point.

Sell them and buy something appropriate, or better yet, stick with factory and get a tune.

Okay, I guess I just dont know what I'm talking about...

All I was trying to say is, judging by how mild my 256's are, it seems like you could make the 272's with 8.5mm lift work well. Adjustable cam gears could help if you need to get rid of some overlap.

In order to make any setup work properly, yes you do need a tune.

I've never used 272's though, so I cant tell you from personal experience. For what its worth, if I could do it again I'd look for some 264's with an 8.8-9mm lift. It just doesnt seem like these 256's did much, we'll let the dyno tell though.

He's right though, in order to notice a difference you're going to need a turbo thats capable of flowing more than a tiny 260-280 hp.

GT2510's and gt2530's are so damn small, I really dont even know why people bother with those turbo's, when an rb25 turbo is what $2000 less? Lots of boost with a 2835 or a 3037 may make those cams usefull, other than that Nismoid is right, stock cams would be best.

However, if you do upgrade turbos, the cams were free.. I'd do some experimenting before I decided to sell them.

335 Rising Star

335

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Okay, I guess I just dont know what I'm talking about...

All I was trying to say is, judging by how mild my 256's are, it seems like you could make the 272's with 8.5mm lift work well. Adjustable cam gears could help if you need to get rid of some overlap.

In order to make any setup work properly, yes you do need a tune.

I've never used 272's though, so I cant tell you from personal experience. For what its worth, if I could do it again I'd look for some 264's with an 8.8-9mm lift. It just doesnt seem like these 256's did much, we'll let the dyno tell though.

He's right though, in order to notice a difference you're going to need a turbo thats capable of flowing more than a tiny 260-280 hp.

GT2510's and gt2530's are so damn small, I really dont even know why people bother with those turbo's, when an rb25 turbo is what $2000 less? Lots of boost with a 2835 or a 3037 may make those cams usefull, other than that Nismoid is right, stock cams would be best.

However, if you do upgrade turbos, the cams were free.. I'd do some experimenting before I decided to sell them.

Ok I understand. So what you are saying is that in your opinion, the 2510 and 2530 turbos are a waste of money when a RB25 turbo can get the same results?

If I went with a 2835 or 3037, how much lag would I get in my car compared to the 2510, 2530, RB25 turbos?

So I am assuming that even with a tune, you don't have any good figures with using the 256 cams you have?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
GT2510's and gt2530's are so damn small, I really dont even know why people bother with those turbo's, when an rb25 turbo is what $2000 less? Lots of boost with a 2835 or a 3037 may make those cams usefull, other than that Nismoid is right, stock cams would be best.

However, if you do upgrade turbos, the cams were free.. I'd do some experimenting before I decided to sell them.

$2000 ?

HKS 2530's are cheap as chips. $1500 second hand, and a darn sight better than the RB25 turbo.

Its just that the RB25 one is cheap, the 2530 is the BEST (and makes more outright power with resonable midrage)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...