Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

im very interested in knowing more about Cam shafts and Cam gears. I know you can some what move the power band in the RPMs by adjusting the Cam gears??? but i got no idea about Cam shafts, What do they do? and how do they befefit your engine? if you buy cam shafts you need to also buy ......

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209734-cam-shaftscam-gears/
Share on other sites

google man.. basically there are 2 things u need to know (anyone else feel free to chime in i only know enough for my plans).

1st camshaft duration

2nd camshaft lift.

duration depending on its size basically moves the power band further towards the redline.

and lift is important, because the more lift=more air and fuel can get in...this is what gives people a lumpy idle,...hi lift

for u. u can fit 256d, 8.50mm lift (i think off top of head) without ANY mod's they drop in.

but after 8.5mm lift it is recommended to go better springs and a solid lifter conversion.

also u may have to get the head regrinded=clearance issues.

google man.. basically there are 2 things u need to know (anyone else feel free to chime in i only know enough for my plans).

1st camshaft duration

2nd camshaft lift.

duration depending on its size basically moves the power band further towards the redline.

and lift is important, because the more lift=more air and fuel can get in...this is what gives people a lumpy idle,...hi lift

for u. u can fit 256d, 8.50mm lift (i think off top of head) without ANY mod's they drop in.

but after 8.5mm lift it is recommended to go better springs and a solid lifter conversion.

also u may have to get the head regrinded=clearance issues.

Little bit too simplistic of an answer champ, there are many variables when it comes to cam lift & profile.

Other things that play a big role are overlap and ramp speed.

You can have a STD lift cam with a very lump idle if you have a big overlap.

You can even dial some compression out of your cylinders with the right profile.

Joel you would probably find that the STD cams for street use would be fine unless you're spending a few $$$ on other mods.

We need to know what you've done to your motor and what your aiming for to advise correctly.

Cruiser and Sled are right, if you want to understand them a bit better try doing a google/yahoo search on 'What is a camshaft', you should be able to get a better idea.

Cams are a waste of $$$ unless you have the mods to take advantage of them. Have a look at the threads in All duno results RB20 and see who has camshafts and the other mods they list that make the camshafts able to be used. Camshafts on their own will do nothing [and could even make your motor perform worse].

The benifits of well matched aftermarket cams and aftermarket ecu are ;

For an old motor:

* Make the same power with : less boost / less timing / less aggressive fuel map / less rpm

For a motor aimed at better performance:

* More power through the entire rpm of the power band

* Extended length of power band, earlier power and power into higher rpm.

You can gain lots out of mild cams on an RB, particularly for a street/response motor.

Any suggestion that they are a waste of money on an RB comes from a lack of experience.

Even on a stocker motor ,you may have stock turbo imposed limits to the 'peak' power number but, the bottom end and mid range gains from cams make the motor night and day different if setup correctly. In most cases 20rwhp or more can be had on all the RB series, through the whole power band.

Cams are very good in terms of an upgrade when done right end of story.

The benifits of well matched aftermarket cams and aftermarket ecu are ;

For an old motor:

* Make the same power with : less boost / less timing / less aggressive fuel map / less rpm

For a motor aimed at better performance:

* More power through the entire rpm of the power band

* Extended length of power band, earlier power and power into higher rpm.

You can gain lots out of mild cams on an RB, particularly for a street/response motor.

Any suggestion that they are a waste of money on an RB comes from a lack of experience.

Even on a stocker motor ,you may have stock turbo imposed limits to the 'peak' power number but, the bottom end and mid range gains from cams make the motor night and day different if setup correctly. In most cases 20rwhp or more can be had on all the RB series, through the whole power band.

Cams are very good in terms of an upgrade when done right end of story.

????? Any lobe profile that holds the valve open longer than a STD lobe will move the power curve further into the rpm and can even narrow the power band which results in less flexibility & response on the street unless you have supporting mods.......not to mention that you take a hit with slightly less compression due to increased overlap.

????? Any lobe profile that holds the valve open longer than a STD lobe will move the power curve further into the rpm and can even narrow the power band which results in less flexibility & response on the street unless you have supporting mods.......not to mention that you take a hit with slightly less compression due to increased overlap.

You assume the standard cams are designed for a wide power band only? Are they optimal for the motor for power?

What about lift? What about the reduction in airflow restriction in the valve opening moment?

Re-think the possibillity of a better designed cam than stock. The only way to make a semi-accurate guess is to plug the data into a cam design program.

I can assure you an off the shelf 256 duration set will lay smack down on stock cams even on a stock turbo. It will bring the turbo on boost sooner and make more average power.

I've had the benifit or having someone run some cam ideas for an RB in the past on a cam program and it accurately predicted a result. The motor was an Rb25 with a stock turbo, it made more down low and everywhere.

I have also demonstrated a 40rwhp gain at as little as 3,000rpm on a standard gtr setup with rather big 260's.

Size the cam right and you get excellent results. On RB's the stock cams are ok but, far from great power wise.

You assume the standard cams are designed for a wide power band only? Are they optimal for the motor for power?

What about lift? What about the reduction in airflow restriction in the valve opening moment?

Re-think the possibillity of a better designed cam than stock. The only way to make a semi-accurate guess is to plug the data into a cam design program.

I can assure you an off the shelf 256 duration set will lay smack down on stock cams even on a stock turbo. It will bring the turbo on boost sooner and make more average power.

I've had the benifit or having someone run some cam ideas for an RB in the past on a cam program and it accurately predicted a result. The motor was an Rb25 with a stock turbo, it made more down low and everywhere.

I have also demonstrated a 40rwhp gain at as little as 3,000rpm on a standard gtr setup with rather big 260's.

Size the cam right and you get excellent results. On RB's the stock cams are ok but, far from great power wise.

If you read what I've said carefully you'll see I was referring to response and flexibility, there's no arguement that increased lift and duration will draw more air and fuel which = more power.

I can assure you an off the shelf 256 duration set will lay smack down on stock cams even on a stock turbo. It will bring the turbo on boost sooner INCORRECT and make more average power CORRECT.

That is assuming all things are even and you're running a stock ECU because a good Motec system can wind lag out of motors with big turbos & cams to a certain degree......but don't forget that's the ECU doing that not the cams.

That is assuming all things are even and you're running a stock ECU because a good Motec system can wind lag out of motors with big turbos & cams to a certain degree......but don't forget that's the ECU doing that not the cams.

Motec system YO! Yep they are fully sick. They wind lag out of motors and wind up clocks too.

Strange really as I had mistakenly thought that an aftermarket ecu's abillity to add more timing brought boost on earlier and that I thought (also mistakenly) this also had the effect of advancing the intake cam timing therfore increasing the cranking compression.....

You seem to be the expert mate. I've just tuned and help tune a few cam setups in RB's that seem to be at odds with your extensive and superior knowledge.

I'll leave it to you to explain it all on this thread from here on as clearly I'm wrong.

People who would like to hear the rantings of a crazy fool like me on putting cams in an RB can PM me but, remember there is far better info in this thread. :thumbsup:

Edited by rev210
another thing to take in account of is that stock cams are always going to be sedate things, with emissions, idle quality and low down drive ability to take care of, they are never going to be mass power producers.

No arguement there.....isn't that what I was saying though......have another read and you'll see I was referring to response & flexibility on an otherwise stock motor?

In my first post on this thread I asked Joel what else he's done to his motor and what his plans are b4 being able to advise further.

Why would someone change cams on a relatively stock motor.....doesn't make any sense (if that is the case).

Motec system YO! Yep they are fully sick. They wind lag out of motors and wind up clocks too.

Strange really as I had mistakenly thought that an aftermarket ecu's abillity to add more timing brought boost on earlier and that I thought (also mistakenly) this also had the effect of advancing the intake cam timing therfore increasing the cranking compression.....You've just agreed with my previous post that it's the ECU that does this.

You seem to be the expert mate. I've just tuned and help tune a few cam setups in RB's that seem to be at odds with your extensive and superior knowledge.

I'll leave it to you to explain it all on this thread from here on as clearly I'm wrong.

People who would like to hear the rantings of a crazy fool like me on putting cams in an RB can PM me but, remember there is far better info in this thread. :)

You're way too emotional and taking this personally not to mention moving away from the specific subject in relation to the question asked by Joel.

During my 20 years at Adelaide Engine we had a cam grinder with approx 200 different masters that included profiles from everything from a 40hp 1200cc VW to Porsche.....what's your engineering background?

You're way too emotional and taking this personally not to mention moving away from the specific subject in relation to the question asked by Joel.

During my 20 years at Adelaide Engine we had a cam grinder with approx 200 different masters that included profiles from everything from a 40hp 1200cc VW to Porsche.....what's your engineering background?

Not emo' just sarcastic. Don't take it the wrong way... :D

I'm putting in my 2c of actual experience with these motors, limited as it is. I have plenty of evidence to substanciate what I am reccomending for this type of engine. I am trying to be helpfull not argumentative....ok so maybe I'm being a bit mean on the odd occasion :)

From my actual experience Response and flexibillty are vastly improved over stock cams. If by response you mean how quickly boost comes on and by flexibillity you mean the width of the power band or average power. The stock cams aren't optimised for either else they would lose out in emissions and to some extent fuel efficiency. If we look at the profiles they have they are really conservative.

Driving a nice set of well sorted Tomei drop in's is chalk and cheeze, the car pulls like a freight train unlike the stock cams.

I have a graph or two of dynos that demonstrate this that have been stuck up before and if you search you can find a number of other examples of what I am talking about.

You have a nice GTR I see and if you haven't considered cams before I'd be happy to show you some results specific to the RB26's. :cheers:

You will also be pleased to hear I have no engineering background so any time you like you can dismiss what I say, I won't be offended. :P

Not emo' just sarcastic. Don't take it the wrong way... :D

I'm putting in my 2c of actual experience with these motors, limited as it is. I have plenty of evidence to substanciate what I am reccomending for this type of engine. I am trying to be helpfull not argumentative....ok so maybe I'm being a bit mean on the odd occasion :P

From my actual experience Response and flexibillty are vastly improved over stock cams. If by response you mean how quickly boost comes on and by flexibillity you mean the width of the power band or average power. The stock cams aren't optimised for either else they would lose out in emissions and to some extent fuel efficiency. If we look at the profiles they have they are really conservative.

Driving a nice set of well sorted Tomei drop in's is chalk and cheeze, the car pulls like a freight train unlike the stock cams.

I have a graph or two of dynos that demonstrate this that have been stuck up before and if you search you can find a number of other examples of what I am talking about.

You have a nice GTR I see and if you haven't considered cams before I'd be happy to show you some results specific to the RB26's. :D

You will also be pleased to hear I have no engineering background so any time you like you can dismiss what I say, I won't be offended. :cheers:

Yeah no offense taken :) .

I always try to compare apples with apples though, ie: same valve timing on the 2 types etc because as you have already stated, response can go up and down the rpm range just with a set of adj gears.

Having said all that, my GTR does have a few mods so I would be keen to see some of your results on 26dett's.........I realize there are alot more experts out there that I could learn from as my knowlegde is not neccesarily engine specific and what works for a 6cyl boxer motor may not work on an RB26.

Here is a good post from my mate WEGS who has had responses from some of the big guns on a similar issue......I think you even had a go in there.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ke...43#entry3617443

Well im aiming for about 230-240kws, i know i could do the conversion thing but i dun wanna ;p i like the RB20 if revs like a mofo.

i was thinking along the lines of mods:

-R34 GTR fuel pump (legend sled)

-444cc or 555cc injectors

-Cam Gears

-Cam shafts (been quoted $820 for a set of RB20 cam shafts 254 DURO and 8.5 lift) <- sound good??

-Bigger turbo, been looking at the hypergear turbos, i like the look of the TR43HF.

the cams part sound ok???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PayPal is a safe, online payment system that enables businesses and individuals to safely send and receive money, making it an indispensable tool in both personal and professional contexts. However, many users wonder how to send money on PayPal? Don't be alarmed if PayPal is new to you - all the steps can be found by visiting merchant sites with links marked "Pay or send money". Once clicked, select payment method, amount, and add message or note for recipient(s). Upon successful transaction completion you will receive an email containing details of transaction. Let’s start by understanding how PayPal works, how money transfers from banks to PayPal and using various payment methods. Moreover, to transfer money between PayPal and bank, head to the Wallet section and click "Add Account", selecting either "Transfer within seconds with debit" or "Transfer between 3-5 days with bank", and following any instructions shown on screen until completed successfully.   How to Send Money Over PayPal: The Basics Before sending money through PayPal, first create an account. Here is how to set-up a PayPal account: ·         Click “Sign Up” on either the PayPal website or app to enter your basic information such as email address or name into their system. ·         Link your bank account, debit card or credit card directly with PayPal so you can fund transactions directly using these accounts. ·         Verifying your PayPal account will enable you to send and receive more funds. Typically, PayPal requires that you verify your credit card or bank account by making small deposits into it. ·         Once your PayPal account has been established, you can send money through it.   How Do I Send Money to Someone on PayPal? After creating a PayPal account, you can easily send money through it. Here is how to send money to someone on PayPal: ·         First of all log into your PayPal account ·         Once on your dashboard, click on "Send & Request Tab." ·         After this enter the recipient's email or mobile phone number. ·         Enter the amount you wish to send to someone. ·         At last, recheck all the details and click "Send Payment" to complete your transaction if everything looks in order.   How Can I Send Money PayPal for Goods and Services? PayPal provides a safe method for individuals and businesses alike to transfer funds online, both personally and commercially. When paying for goods or services there are additional protections in place both for buyers and sellers. PayPal Buyer Protection offers you peace of mind when paying for products or services with PayPal. In the unlikely event that there is an issue with a transaction, if there are any discrepancies you may dispute it and be eligible for a possible refund. You need to follow the same steps to send money, but select Paying for Services or Goods when prompted. In fact, this extra layer of protection will keep your account safe from fraudulent attacks.   How to Transfer Money to PayPal from Bank? Here is how to transfer money from PayPal from bank: ·         Log into PayPal using either its app or website. ·         Click "Add Funds" in the Wallet section, and add money directly from your bank to your PayPal account. ·         If you have linked your bank account with PayPal, select it under Funding options to select it as your funding option. ·         Enter the amount you would like to transfer to PayPal from your bank balance. ·         Click Add Funds. It typically takes several days for funds to arrive on your PayPal account.   FAQ How can I send money PayPal? Log into your PayPal account, select "Send and Request," enter in your recipient's phone number or email address, select the amount due, payment method of choice and click on "Send Now" - quickly and safely sending money via PayPal is now an efficient method of money transfers!   How do I transfer money to PayPal from a bank? Log into PayPal and select "Add Funds" to transfer money from your bank to PayPal. Select your account number, input an amount, and confirm it. Though the transfer may take up to several days for completion.   How do you send money to someone on PayPal? Simply log into your PayPal account, select "Send and Request", enter the recipient's phone number or email address, select the amount to send, and click "Send Now".   How can I receive payment through PayPal? Senders can easily accept payments with PayPal by providing your PayPal email address and being notified via email when a payment has been completed. When funds appear in your PayPal account, they will appear instantly!
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...