Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I can get brand new real carbon fibre R32 GTR grills for about $260 or normal fibre glass grills for $150.

The grills are all brand new. Depending on how many people are interested in this group buy will depend on how much cheaper I can get them.

Ok I have been told I i have to put a close date so I will make it a month from now 11/April. The grills will be imported from the US there will be no GST or custom dutys as the value of the grills are less then $1000US

Postage will be be included in the price and the grills will be sent direct from the supplier to each individual person.

Let me know if you want to be put on the list. As it gets to the closer to the close date I can get the exact price of the grills as I will have a better Idea of how many I will need to get.

Cheers

1. MYSELF

2. BWRGTR

3. JM4MP

4. J-TRAIN

5.NEFRET

post-17649-1205196373_thumb.jpg

post-17649-1205196379_thumb.jpg

Edited by boosted_32
i wouldnt mind seeing a photo of the carbon installed on a gtr...

i'm semi interested!

ive got a carbon bonnet on my car so I recon the carbon grill will look awsome!

  • 1 month later...

Remove from list please.

I was banking on the close date being the 11th of April and I still have not heard anything.

Have taken another quicker avenue.

Organisation please.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...