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Nistune Powerfc Hks Fcon Haltech Ems Link Ecu Etc Real Time Road Tune And Dyno Tune Available In Sydney And Other State


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I got my ecu remapped by toshi and the results are amazing.

Thanks Toshi.

Thank you Bahamasky.

He is living over sea and his car is fitting big turbo.

Mods:

FMIC

GREDDY PLENUM INTAKE

Q45 THROTTLE BODY

550CC INJECTORS

TOP MOUNT GT35R GARRETT TURBO

ACT STAGE THREE CLUTCH

TAIL BOV AND WASTGATE

STRAIGHT CATBACK EXHAUST

NISMO REGULATOR

HKS CONE FILTER

Im sorry I did not get your e-mail.

Toshi can u give ur email address i'll send it again, coz i sent u a long email before explaining the problems it was on ur profile where it says send email i sent it thru that plz check ur SPAM or junk email folder in hotmail or yahoo, gmail etc. it could be in there i cant send PMs reason not enuf posts.

thanks

Edited by sidewinder11
Toshi can u give ur email address i'll send it again, coz i sent u a long email before explaining the problems it was on ur profile where it says send email i sent it thru that plz check ur SPAM or junk email folder in hotmail or yahoo, gmail etc. it could be in there i cant send PMs reason not enuf posts.

thanks

My e-mail address and phone number is first of this thread.

[email protected]

  • 3 weeks later...

Im starting Power FC road tune by fc data logit (laptop computer).

Price $400

If your power fc is not tune yet , try my road tune.

If you are not happy with the performance, I will not charge.

0410490049

[email protected]

I sent remap chip to epigram and he got 265.4 RWHP or 197.98 RWKW (auto mission) on 98 octane.

His mods

Series 1 2 door R33 AUTOMAGIC

80k std RB25DET

std turbo

std injectors

std manifolds (in & ex)

Monsta FMIC

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Toshi Kubota modified and remapped std ECU

Tomei adjustable FPR set to 45psi@idle

std coils

NGK BKR5EYA special anti fouling plugs gapped to 0.8mm (no misfires!)

adjustable boost bleed valve set to max 12psi

std auto

std dif

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Au...0&start=220

Thank you

  • 1 month later...
hey toshi

got a auto s1 stagea

should i get a shift kit fitted before a remap?

You do not need shift kit.

Hi Toshi

I'm keen for a remap.

2002 R34 GTT Auto

3 inch turbo back exhaust with hi flow cat

hypergear hi flowed turbo

cold air intake with K&N pod

Std injectors and fuel pump

Std intercooler (which i think is probably where the bottle neck is going to come)

I'd be keen for 220- 240rwkw, as i don't want to push the standard internals, any suggestions where to go from here?

I have my Toshi remapped ECU in my R33 Auto. I live n Brisbane, this was all done via express post and my dyno shop. It is the single best upgrade I have given my Skylne.

Performance is remarkable. Power increase, fuel economy better. AFR is steady, I dyno'd

my car and results are amazing! This guy knows his stuff!

My car is transformed, excellent service too, pleasure to deal with.

Highly recommended.

Hi Toshi

I'm keen for a remap.

2002 R34 GTT Auto

3 inch turbo back exhaust with hi flow cat

hypergear hi flowed turbo

cold air intake with K&N pod

Std injectors and fuel pump

Std intercooler (which i think is probably where the bottle neck is going to come)

I'd be keen for 220- 240rwkw, as i don't want to push the standard internals, any suggestions where to go from here?

I sent PM.

Thank you

I have my Toshi remapped ECU in my R33 Auto. I live n Brisbane, this was all done via express post and my dyno shop. It is the single best upgrade I have given my Skylne.

Performance is remarkable. Power increase, fuel economy better. AFR is steady, I dyno'd

my car and results are amazing! This guy knows his stuff!

My car is transformed, excellent service too, pleasure to deal with.

Highly recommended.

Thank you 1C3B3RG.

if you have any further queries, please feel free to contact me anytime.

I sent PM.

Thank you

Hi

I can't reply to your PM for some idiotic reason, because i am new here and haven't posted 10 times yet. I also can't message the administrators and ask them why, for the same reason.

Any way, yes there is a dyno shop nearby, but i don't know about the soldering part. How much soldering is there? I thought it would just plug in, in place of the old ecu?

What would need to be tuned on the dyno exactly,and would the people running it have the software to do it?

Regards

Nick.

hi, my r33 has been tuned by "car station" in japan.

Ive opened up the ecu box and there is a socket with a removable chip on the board.

If I changed my setup eg AFM and injectors could you supply a new chip for my box to run the new gear?

thanks

hi, my r33 has been tuned by "car station" in japan.

Ive opened up the ecu box and there is a socket with a removable chip on the board.

If I changed my setup eg AFM and injectors could you supply a new chip for my box to run the new gear?

thanks

Yes,Im able to supply new chip.

  • 1 month later...

I have a question.

If i already have the nistune board installed, and the nistune software, is it possible to just email you the BIN file, you do the adjustments and email it back and i burn it too the chip? This would save sending the entire ECU to you?

I have a question.

If i already have the nistune board installed, and the nistune software, is it possible to just email you the BIN file, you do the adjustments and email it back and i burn it too the chip? This would save sending the entire ECU to you?

If R32 or 34 it is possible.

But cost more.




  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
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