Jump to content
SAU Community

Should I Get A Fuel Pump And Injectors?

Adz2332

By Adz2332,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

Just after a bit of advice, The car is a GTR R33 Skyline.

The items that are fitted is

N1 Turbos

exhaust - Just fap front pipe, highflow metal cat and cat back Kakimoto Regu 06&R.

Blitz SUS Pods

Trust FMIC

Have bought ready to install....

Greddy profec 2

Tomei Cam gears...

and

Power FC and controller

Standered fuel pump, injectors etc etc

Should i change the fuel pump? or injectors? Will the stock GTR items be ok? If need to be changed what would surfice?

Should i look at adding anything??? I want to do as much as i can before the tune so i know it'll all be right.

Just wondering what COULD be expected from this set up??

Thanks

Edited by Adz2332
sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

You need both before installing the PowerFC or you'll be wasting your time and money tuning it. You'll max out the injectors before making any meaningful power and the workshop will most likely tell you what everyones told you already.

upgrade your fuel system....

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

Injectors and fuel pump will go to about 270kw - people say 300kw but it never makes it to there as the are old and tired

I would personally go some bigger injectors and also a new fuel pump - NISMO/TOMEI etc

You've come this far so you might as well put everything on at once and get it all tuned together otherwise you would be just wasting money going back later for more boost + injectors & fuel pump

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

Yes - Although the 040 might require you to modify the cradle to make it fit - had to cut the bottom of the cradle off in my GTST

TOMEI pumps go in way easier - use the stock fittings/mountings etc and come with new seal and shit

Yes - injectors are piss easy in GTR

there is a DIY somewhere as well

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Also with the fuel pumps, all the nismo 276L/H, HKS 280L/H Tomei etc etc all around the same price etc So they all around the same??? or are any better than others??

Edited by Adz2332
johnbarry88 Grand Master

johnbarry88

Posted
Posted

you might get away with one of those up 350rwkw maybe..yeah yeah I know heaps of ppl are making that on standard pumps blah blah blah...its about how much power you want know and in the end run, sure you can use it as a lift pump in the next upgrade but then that means another tune and more $$$ wasted...just do it rite the first time and be done with it, run new fuel lines like 3/8" lines again ppl say standard is fine but think 3/8" or 10mm is 20% bigger in size than standard...

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted

At the moment greenline has a special on SARD injectors, so i was thinking some 700cc. Will they do the job?? As there the same price as the 660cc ones

Also with the fuel pumps, all the nismo 276L/H, HKS 280L/H Tomei etc etc all around the same price etc So they all around the same??? or are any better than others??

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted

Nismo and HKS are better pumps than Tomei. A few ppl have said Tomei's lose voltage at high RPM and the engine leans out.

GET the pump and injectors. As soon as i cranked the boost (from stock to 12psi) the pump started to die.

Pump change is a DIY job, i'm not a mechanic and i got the old pump out easy. Injectors give the DIY sectin a read.

Get injectors that suit what you need from them. No use getting 1,000,000cc's when i.e. 660cc will suffice.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

Don't put a junky Bosche 040 in your GTR if you want to make good decent power and reliably.

Get a Nismo 275lph @ 72psi pump. It will fit it like a glove and require no modifications. Oh, and you won't have pickup issues either.

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Don't put a junky Bosche 040 in your GTR if you want to make good decent power and reliably.

Get a Nismo 275lph @ 72psi pump. It will fit it like a glove and require no modifications. Oh, and you won't have pickup issues either.

excellent thanks guys thats the info i was after!!

Glad there both a DIY job, will search for the info...

Ill get a price on the nismo 275lph and the sard 700cc injectors. cheers guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...