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car will do around 250km to a full tank

mods

front mount cooler

r34 gtr fuel pump

car runs 10psi

stock computer

what is my problem and what should be normal full economy for a r33 running ten psi ?

anyone think the gtr full pump is not needed and to take it out??

Edited by rich flavour
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Well i dont flog it but i guess if i drive off boost it would be better but i dont always drive on boost so it should be better then what it is

there is something wrong i get 350-400km out of a tank with 251rwkw @ 16psi (i boost it abit too) with ebc turn off (runs around 9psi) i can get upto 400-450km out of a tank

get an ecu and tune it

or use a piggyback

what are the advantages off piggy backing the ecu sorry for the silly question but i dont really know that much still learning any way heres a example:

i have a automatic Rb25det four door, 3" exhaust all the way thru coughcough no cat,FMIC,huge K&N pod filter,CAI + DIY heat shield for pod,runnin 7psi,split fire coil pack's and some

other stuff.

with the IMPUL r33 automatic ecu so if i take this out and use microtech LT10s ecu instead i will lose my shift points for automatic and aircon etc something like that anyway

so if i piggy back it with standard impul ecu i will still retain aircon and that?

will it be better that standard? any more info would be great before i go ahed with it guess it will help my fuel econ stop it from runing rich my mechanic said its runnin rich because im

pushing the limit on the IMPUL R33 Automatic ECU because the car can breath so much more air because off the stage1 mods i have noticed that it does not like to go to 10 psi hits

R & R so i left it at 7psi no flat spots aka lag so if i piggy back the IMPUL ecu with the aftermarket ecu then i should be able to sort out my A/F ratios etc.?

If you dont Know off the impul ecu here's a site that will let you know what it does ==> ==>"ABOUT THE IMPUL ECU click me" <== <==

here's the the type off car i got my ecu off

(actually it was SAU member i bought it off lucky if you can find one off these here's the link : ==> ==>"THE CAR THE ECU CAME FROM click me" <== <==

Cheers

Allan.M

Have to agree with paul, it is his ecu. If the car was stock then maybe not, but the ecu he has is not the ecu for the mods he has, esp. front mount and 10psi [how'd you measure this]. I had the same probs, and swapped for a pfc. I reckon the pfc has paid for itself in fuel saved and also gave a much better cleaner power delivery.

Plus, is his ecu stock? In a lot of jap imports the ecu chips are swapped out for no speed limiter/richer fuel units.

Have you popped the cover on your ecu and had a look at the chip etc?

yeh well i havnt checked the ecu for a chip.where could i get a test down so they can single out my problem? also where is the best place to get a pfc or im thinking of running a computer that dont use a afm...

i get 250km~ to a tank and backfire like a motherbollockser, and all ive done is a catback exhaust!

I think its time to check my o2 sensor too, the plugs are relatively new and i just gapped them to .8 but popping didnt change at all.

your an idiot if your warming your car up for 10mins each morning..get in start it idle it for 30secs-1min then drive it just baby it until thermostat opens and yeah...

ive got after market ecu LINK and its got a shit tune and i barely see 180kms per $60 around town and 250kms on highway so think yourself lucky.

time for a decent tune from a brisbane workshop:)

idling doesnt use that much fuel, obviously a bit more from a cold start but not enough to effect your economy that much, unless you only drive very short trips between cold starts.

you dont need to warm your car up for that much anyway, let it idle for 20-30 secs to build up oil pressure then just drive it soft to warm up everything, gearbox diff etc, not just the motor

how does this solve his problem?

what is the point of tring to fix the problem, if you don't know what the problem is. the problem isn't his ecu. and saying it is, is complete bs...

hi michael

whilst i usually avoid cross forum member attacks etc but anyway - given his list of mods and typical fuel economy most GTST guys see

i still think that its his ECU at fault, no where its a case of it just needs a decent tune, a sensor is toast, someone's remapped it to homo settings, or he has a non-supported 02 snsor etc

it could be many many things, but overall one of the essential fucntions of the ECU is fuel injection control and part of that is 02 feedback, which in turn gives you decent fuel economy 300kms+ to a tank.

short of wierd things such as split fuel hoses, loose fuel pumps, wierd filling up tank procedures (ie: him saying a full tank is really 30 liters instead of 50) then i suspect the ECU and tune is the next likely culprit. the recommended action would be to remap it, piggyback it, or change the ecu. if he isnt prepared to do then its needs more debuggin work on the dyno and on the street with a wideband sensor, which just wastes time and $. and besides he will make more power & response with either a remap, piggyback or standalone anyway

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