Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A faulty blow off valve and the way you have described your fix firstly has to be corrected.

Then get a new cat..if it is faulty.

You will then need to reset your computer...I think you are in limp mode

Limp mode Hey! Never Heard of it b4!!!

Only got the One BOV hooked up with the 2 vaccum lines running into it. The Other Bov is still on there but has a metal plate behind it so it won't let anything escape.

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

boost leak?

Reset the ECU? Certain mods (such as BOV's) can confuse the computer and make it run poorly..

something so small as plugs or cat are not going to make 20 - 50Kw diffrence..

When did you change your oil and oil filter last?

Has anyone worked on the car before it got sluggish?

I know of many stories of people leaving the rags blocking the turbo piping (so no sh*t falls in while your working on it) and forgetting to take them out before connecting the piping back together..

A/F ratios? how do they sit?

Edited by GTS4WD

Check the faults in the computer..

Check your fuel pressure.....

Check your injectors...have them cleaned

Check your cat...

Check you have boost...and no leaks.

If they all are correct....borrow or buy a second hand stock computer..plug it in and see if this fixes your problem.

Good luck with your find.....hope it is just as simple as a cat or a blockage in your muffler.

boost leak?

Reset the ECU? Certain mods (such as BOV's) can confuse the computer and make it run poorly..

something so small as plugs or cat are not going to make 20 - 50Kw diffrence..

When did you change your oil and oil filter last?

Has anyone worked on the car before it got sluggish?

I know of many stories of people leaving the rags blocking the turbo piping (so no sh*t falls in while your working on it) and forgetting to take them out before connecting the piping back together..

A/F ratios? how do they sit?

Oil and filter Were Put in Just b4 the Dyno run so they have only done dyno time!

Said the Boost is Running at 11 PSI and he did tell me about the rag incidents today actually when he was letting me know about the problems!! was talking the car up that everything was running fine so i was getting excited until he said it got crap on the dyno!!!!! (car was originally in the shop cause it was Running to rich for some reason so i said wack it on the dyno for me and give me a tune. They also Run the Consult as well so i

'm not to sure how the A/F ratios.)

Check the faults in the computer..

Check your fuel pressure.....

Check your injectors...have them cleaned

Check your cat...

Check you have boost...and no leaks.

If they all are correct....borrow or buy a second hand stock computer..plug it in and see if this fixes your problem.

Good luck with your find.....hope it is just as simple as a cat or a blockage in your muffler.

Will let the Mech No mate! Cheers for the Help hey!! Greatly Appreciated!! ta!

Compliance cats are well known killers of power.

Its easy enough to drop the exhaust before the cat and run it on the dyno again...or go for a drive and see if the car feels less 'choked'

Start with the obvious things like the exhaust before doing the smaller things. Limp mode is exactly that, LIMP mode...as in your car wont rev, wont make nowhere near 150rwkw and will be barely movable. Designed to get the car home from wherever you are, not cost you 20kw

Compliance cats are well known killers of power.

Its easy enough to drop the exhaust before the cat and run it on the dyno again...or go for a drive and see if the car feels less 'choked'

Start with the obvious things like the exhaust before doing the smaller things. Limp mode is exactly that, LIMP mode...as in your car wont rev, wont make nowhere near 150rwkw and will be barely movable. Designed to get the car home from wherever you are, not cost you 20kw

Thanks for the info Bro!!!

And when you say Limp mode, how far will it rev when it is in Limp mode??

when i got mine done they were saying 150 to 160 is stock. i made 194rwkw and i just got exhaust n airfilters

it all depends what dyno you use though, you could dyno it twice in 1 day at 2 different places and get different results. not to mention you'll get a better score in cooler weather than in hot. they not the most accurate thing in the world. i mean why would they do 3 runs in comp's if it gave a perfect answer everytime.

you'd be best off getting someone else with a stock gtr 2 race you or get them to go down the dyno at the same time and compare the results then.

Ok guys its still Running 151 and its not the Cat! Cat was taken of today and all good! Now they reckon its the ECU!!! Who F#CKIN KNOWS NOW!!!

Knock Sensors Knock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock Sensors

Knock Sensors Knock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock SensorsKnock Sensors

Hey Thanks for the Advice!!! Might let the Mechanic Know! Where abouts are they??

could be a low reading dyno. how do other cars go on his dyno.

my old SR20 180 got 151 RWKW with just catback, filter and 15psi. And i had a 1J with same mods got 180RWKW. (EDIT:Both on Dyno dynamics in shootout mode on dyno days)

Edited by DLOOOK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...