Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Looking at purchasing a FMIC, dont mind spending money thats needed, wanna do things once and right!

My question is what are your opinions on direct bolt on intercoolers and cutting into your chasis? bad idea to be cutting into chasis for shorter piping or is it fairly safe? i was looking at these couple intercoolers just curious to know which would be the better way to go? Any input would be great.

Thanks

post-36420-1206372443_thumb.jpg

post-36420-1206372455_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211818-intercooler-choice/
Share on other sites

find a workshop that will supply and fit an intercooler for around $500

there should be a few workshops these days that can do them at this price

this should also include not cutting front reo bars etc and a proper install

ask them before you hand over $

The first one is less work, but if you ever plan on running a forward facing plenum you wont be able to keep it.

Tube and fin intercoolers are more efficient, and usually dearer. APEXi used to make a Hybrid Intercooler which was both Bar and Tube...

The only thing with the first intercooler is that the piping is for a Supra?

The pipes come out on the one side like the Blitz, but they are facing the wrong way [should be facing away].

I run with a Blitz, no complaints.

I've just had a HDI one installed thinking of changing it to a Justjap one so I can run the standard airbox again ... very happy with their exhaust system so I'm sure I'll be happy with this also ... although I'm only gonna run 10-13psi max through it it probally overkill

I just had a jap intercooler installed by Morpowa in Adelaide, trust me.. keep away from the cheap alternative. The cooler is cheap (around $350 for kit inc piping) and the quality seems to be very good, but the piping is completely wrong (sold as an R33 R34 kit). The installers swore black n blue that they would never fit one again. Pipes too short, silicon sleeves too small, had to change the wiper motor to a smaller one to fit, spacers from the block so piping could be secured.. all kinds of hassles. Just get the Greddy kit.. so much easier and no hassles!

Has anyone installed one of those just jap ones that use the standard piping on an r33?

Post up pics how it looks from the front! :):D:D

Give me a couple of weeks and I will show pics. Making payment tomorrow morning for mine, so by the time it gets here will be early next week most likely, install when I get the chance after work/the next weekend. Though mine will be painted black with black joiners, aim is stealth.

I just had a jap intercooler installed by Morpowa in Adelaide, trust me.. keep away from the cheap alternative. The cooler is cheap (around $350 for kit inc piping) and the quality seems to be very good, but the piping is completely wrong (sold as an R33 R34 kit). The installers swore black n blue that they would never fit one again. Pipes too short, silicon sleeves too small, had to change the wiper motor to a smaller one to fit, spacers from the block so piping could be secured.. all kinds of hassles. Just get the Greddy kit.. so much easier and no hassles!

Hmmm was considering JustJap kit, now my confidence is a little bit tattered. :ninja: So the problem was with the pipng and joins? Perhaps get a justjap intercooler and buy piping/joinery seperate?

Hmmm was considering JustJap kit, now my confidence is a little bit tattered. :D So the problem was with the pipng and joins? Perhaps get a justjap intercooler and buy piping/joinery seperate?

Absolutely.. only problem is.. it may end up being cheaper just to get the Greddy kit, i think i saw the whole kit with piping on ebay for around $500. Or just take it to the istaller and let em put on whatever they suggest, i think the hybrid or Greddy from performance shops are around the $1000 mark plus around $300 for install

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...