Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will need a spacer plate between the exhaust housing and the manifold so that the compressor housing clears the exhaust manifold but thats a PITA and cheap .

my input in bold :laugh:

And if a 3071 can't fit without a spacer then nothing will. The garrett turbine inlet is smaller than the nissan manifold outlet as mentioned in DP03's post so there is some work involved in matching the 2. Luckily, as you need a spacer you can grind that out and not the turbine housing inlet.

Great post discopotato03.

I'm looking at upgrading my turbo and have had the 3076 recommended to me by one of the better known tuning shops in Sydney.

Edit: fixed speelingk

Edited by Wayne_J
I think the concept has merit.............we all get sick of answering the same requests all the time and yes we do get short/abrupt and minimalist.

But what we all have to remember is that we all started in that exact same position years ago ourselves - and short/abrupt and minimalist can be seen as downright rude.

I'm no expert, and I've asked some pretty dumb questions at times, and there has always been somebody there with the patience to help.

And I've stuck to it and learnt as I went along to the point where I can actually now help out at times.......all thanks to SAU [and spending $$ modding my skyline].

As a forum, we don't want to see potential/members disenfranchised or leaving because we fail to answer what may be [to others] a simple question. And that is the danger.........

Very well said.

Sometimes those who have been there and done it all before forget and assume newbies already know what they should be searching for... it is not always obvious at first.

I'm new to turbos, and Skylines for that matter and it can put you off this forum when you read glib replies about using a search engine.

Not that it is unique to this forum of course :laugh:

^^ Its a fine line dude.

I would think, theres almost everything required on this forum to achieve what you want... the delta between taking it to a shop and getting raped, is TIME... Squishy organic human units hate spending time on something, when they could possibly get away with taking a shortcut.

It takes time and lots of $$ to get a great result sometimes, hence why ppl are short or "rude" to those that are inherently lazy.

Anyway, I think all this PC talk is ruining this FAQ thread... course i expect it all to me moderated.. so party on :laugh:

GT3071 or GT3076 IW and you really can't go wrong from a bolt on perspective if you are chasing a fairly easy/lazy 270-280rwkw. The GT3076 if you wish to squeeze 300rwkw.

Bolt on a GT35r to the stock manifold is just silly. They don't make more power than the GT30's unless they are paired with nice cams and most importantly a decent exhaust manifold.

Port matching etc goes a long way. A bloke had a GT35r .82 on his rb30det; 270rwkw 17psi. No port matching.

I port matched bolted up a GT3076r .82 and 268rwkw on 15psi. 17psi saw 285rwkw.

So port match port match port match and don't go bigger than a GT3076r on the std exhaust manifold unless you want to accelerate slower to peak power of where u are for a 10th of a second.

Very briefly what bolts to RB20/25DET unmodified housing wise .

Obviously the factory Hitachi RB20/RB25/VG30 single type turbochargers .

HKS model specific turbos/kits .

GT25/28 series - GT2530/GT2535/GT-RS .

GT30 series ----- GT2835 Pro S/GT3037 Pro S .

Real type Garrett GT3071R/GT3076R - possibly needing manifold spacer .

Garrett GT3582R - but a bit extreme for 2/2.5L six cylinder powered RWD car .

Note I have only mentioned integral wastegate turbos and in the forms you can buy them as complete .

This is because most people want something they can buy/bolt on relatively easily .

Cheers A .

^^ Its a fine line dude.

I would think, theres almost everything required on this forum to achieve what you want... the delta between taking it to a shop and getting raped, is TIME... Squishy organic human units hate spending time on something, when they could possibly get away with taking a shortcut.

It takes time and lots of $ to get a great result sometimes, hence why ppl are short or "rude" to those that are inherently lazy.

Anyway, I think all this PC talk is ruining this FAQ thread... course i expect it all to me moderated.. so party on :P

Heh... yeah, I suppose there are too many variables regarding the above topic ^^ .

E.G, I'm not lazy and generally can find almost anything on the net most times, but not always, especially if it's a topic you're not already clued in on.

I've used search here and can find 'answers' to my question but its hard to know if it is the right answer, which is compounded by conflicting answers... blah - just going round in circles here, probably easier to not say anything :/

GT3071 or GT3076 IW and you really can't go wrong from a bolt on perspective if you are chasing a fairly easy/lazy 270-280rwkw. The GT3076 if you wish to squeeze 300rwkw.

Bolt on a GT35r to the stock manifold is just silly. They don't make more power than the GT30's unless they are paired with nice cams and most importantly a decent exhaust manifold.

Port matching etc goes a long way. A bloke had a GT35r .82 on his rb30det; 270rwkw 17psi. No port matching.

I port matched bolted up a GT3076r .82 and 268rwkw on 15psi. 17psi saw 285rwkw.

So port match port match port match and don't go bigger than a GT3076r on the std exhaust manifold unless you want to accelerate slower to peak power of where u are for a 10th of a second.

Great info Cubes, thanks mate.

It is good to at least have a narrowed down list of turbo options - I was also told the 3076 was good for 260-280rwkw.

Good to see consistant advice, gives me confidence in what to buy.

I must admit I've found this area (turbos) fairly confusing - so many variables and choices, conflicting info, plus its an expensive upgrade so you wanna get it right the first time!

Also will keep in mind the port matching comments as well.

It'd be nice if I could crack 300rwKW though... a nice round figure...

Don't want to stray too far off the topic, but any suggestions on what brand/size injectors, fuel pump & reg to compliment a GT3076 also most welcome :P

Cheers

A matter of opinion but GT3076R's can do better than many give them credit for , don't think that just because some can't get 320Kw + from a 3076R equipt engine that its necessarlity the turbos limitations .

As I mentioned a while back the real GT3071R has seen 440 Hp at the wheels in some apps but I think in single scroll form the turbine housing would need to be big and the power curve too peaky for most people .

I think 280 odd Kw is not unreasonable to expect with Garrett's single scroll 0.63 A/R GT30 turbine housing - even an IW one .

The thing that's impossible for me to predict is what it will feel like on an RB25DET at around town type revs and road speeds .

My best guess (and that's all it is) is that it would feel pretty linear and controllable and hopefully not have that's lets double the engines torque output in 500 revs when it came on boost . All too often that shove in the back characteristic means virtually uncontrollable wheelspin which is not fast , dramatic yes fast no .

A progressive climb into boost would be nice and possibly do a little in the way of hoof balanced traction control .

Anyhow there should be results of such an upgrade soon .

Cheers A .

  • 2 years later...

havent heard to much about gcg's highflow r33 turbo?? any comments?? Iv heard there 2k and rated at 450hp...therefore more then a 3071r and no port matching needed, also maybe more responsive?? and can put out 270rwkws on about 18psi....any 1 back this up? just thought it would be good to look into

The SK R33 cranked out 266Kw with a GCG Hi flow but it also had the larger Z32 300ZX OP6 type turbine housing , also found on some R34 GTt OE turbos . I don't remember the exact figure but the 0P6 turbine housing is supposed to have something like + 20Kw when machined to suit the GCG BB Hi Flows turbine wheel .

That car had porting/cams/better inlet/better IC/fuel system/management .

The big draw with these Hi Flows is that they look absolutely std in situ because externally they ARE std , all the factory heat shields obviously go back in as does all the original oil/water/exhaust/air plumbing bits .

I understand that the "Batamble ?" front exhaust pipe actually bolts up much more easily that the std and aftermarket "dump pipes" because it comes straight out behind the turbo before it ducks down and under . Tight bends straight off the dump flange are a PITA because the lower fasteners are a bitch to get at .

I need an easy solution for my R33 and I have an 0P6 housing so may be a good thing with that front pipe .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...