Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will need a spacer plate between the exhaust housing and the manifold so that the compressor housing clears the exhaust manifold but thats a PITA and cheap .

my input in bold :laugh:

And if a 3071 can't fit without a spacer then nothing will. The garrett turbine inlet is smaller than the nissan manifold outlet as mentioned in DP03's post so there is some work involved in matching the 2. Luckily, as you need a spacer you can grind that out and not the turbine housing inlet.

Great post discopotato03.

I'm looking at upgrading my turbo and have had the 3076 recommended to me by one of the better known tuning shops in Sydney.

Edit: fixed speelingk

Edited by Wayne_J
I think the concept has merit.............we all get sick of answering the same requests all the time and yes we do get short/abrupt and minimalist.

But what we all have to remember is that we all started in that exact same position years ago ourselves - and short/abrupt and minimalist can be seen as downright rude.

I'm no expert, and I've asked some pretty dumb questions at times, and there has always been somebody there with the patience to help.

And I've stuck to it and learnt as I went along to the point where I can actually now help out at times.......all thanks to SAU [and spending $$ modding my skyline].

As a forum, we don't want to see potential/members disenfranchised or leaving because we fail to answer what may be [to others] a simple question. And that is the danger.........

Very well said.

Sometimes those who have been there and done it all before forget and assume newbies already know what they should be searching for... it is not always obvious at first.

I'm new to turbos, and Skylines for that matter and it can put you off this forum when you read glib replies about using a search engine.

Not that it is unique to this forum of course :laugh:

^^ Its a fine line dude.

I would think, theres almost everything required on this forum to achieve what you want... the delta between taking it to a shop and getting raped, is TIME... Squishy organic human units hate spending time on something, when they could possibly get away with taking a shortcut.

It takes time and lots of $$ to get a great result sometimes, hence why ppl are short or "rude" to those that are inherently lazy.

Anyway, I think all this PC talk is ruining this FAQ thread... course i expect it all to me moderated.. so party on :laugh:

GT3071 or GT3076 IW and you really can't go wrong from a bolt on perspective if you are chasing a fairly easy/lazy 270-280rwkw. The GT3076 if you wish to squeeze 300rwkw.

Bolt on a GT35r to the stock manifold is just silly. They don't make more power than the GT30's unless they are paired with nice cams and most importantly a decent exhaust manifold.

Port matching etc goes a long way. A bloke had a GT35r .82 on his rb30det; 270rwkw 17psi. No port matching.

I port matched bolted up a GT3076r .82 and 268rwkw on 15psi. 17psi saw 285rwkw.

So port match port match port match and don't go bigger than a GT3076r on the std exhaust manifold unless you want to accelerate slower to peak power of where u are for a 10th of a second.

Very briefly what bolts to RB20/25DET unmodified housing wise .

Obviously the factory Hitachi RB20/RB25/VG30 single type turbochargers .

HKS model specific turbos/kits .

GT25/28 series - GT2530/GT2535/GT-RS .

GT30 series ----- GT2835 Pro S/GT3037 Pro S .

Real type Garrett GT3071R/GT3076R - possibly needing manifold spacer .

Garrett GT3582R - but a bit extreme for 2/2.5L six cylinder powered RWD car .

Note I have only mentioned integral wastegate turbos and in the forms you can buy them as complete .

This is because most people want something they can buy/bolt on relatively easily .

Cheers A .

^^ Its a fine line dude.

I would think, theres almost everything required on this forum to achieve what you want... the delta between taking it to a shop and getting raped, is TIME... Squishy organic human units hate spending time on something, when they could possibly get away with taking a shortcut.

It takes time and lots of $ to get a great result sometimes, hence why ppl are short or "rude" to those that are inherently lazy.

Anyway, I think all this PC talk is ruining this FAQ thread... course i expect it all to me moderated.. so party on :P

Heh... yeah, I suppose there are too many variables regarding the above topic ^^ .

E.G, I'm not lazy and generally can find almost anything on the net most times, but not always, especially if it's a topic you're not already clued in on.

I've used search here and can find 'answers' to my question but its hard to know if it is the right answer, which is compounded by conflicting answers... blah - just going round in circles here, probably easier to not say anything :/

GT3071 or GT3076 IW and you really can't go wrong from a bolt on perspective if you are chasing a fairly easy/lazy 270-280rwkw. The GT3076 if you wish to squeeze 300rwkw.

Bolt on a GT35r to the stock manifold is just silly. They don't make more power than the GT30's unless they are paired with nice cams and most importantly a decent exhaust manifold.

Port matching etc goes a long way. A bloke had a GT35r .82 on his rb30det; 270rwkw 17psi. No port matching.

I port matched bolted up a GT3076r .82 and 268rwkw on 15psi. 17psi saw 285rwkw.

So port match port match port match and don't go bigger than a GT3076r on the std exhaust manifold unless you want to accelerate slower to peak power of where u are for a 10th of a second.

Great info Cubes, thanks mate.

It is good to at least have a narrowed down list of turbo options - I was also told the 3076 was good for 260-280rwkw.

Good to see consistant advice, gives me confidence in what to buy.

I must admit I've found this area (turbos) fairly confusing - so many variables and choices, conflicting info, plus its an expensive upgrade so you wanna get it right the first time!

Also will keep in mind the port matching comments as well.

It'd be nice if I could crack 300rwKW though... a nice round figure...

Don't want to stray too far off the topic, but any suggestions on what brand/size injectors, fuel pump & reg to compliment a GT3076 also most welcome :P

Cheers

A matter of opinion but GT3076R's can do better than many give them credit for , don't think that just because some can't get 320Kw + from a 3076R equipt engine that its necessarlity the turbos limitations .

As I mentioned a while back the real GT3071R has seen 440 Hp at the wheels in some apps but I think in single scroll form the turbine housing would need to be big and the power curve too peaky for most people .

I think 280 odd Kw is not unreasonable to expect with Garrett's single scroll 0.63 A/R GT30 turbine housing - even an IW one .

The thing that's impossible for me to predict is what it will feel like on an RB25DET at around town type revs and road speeds .

My best guess (and that's all it is) is that it would feel pretty linear and controllable and hopefully not have that's lets double the engines torque output in 500 revs when it came on boost . All too often that shove in the back characteristic means virtually uncontrollable wheelspin which is not fast , dramatic yes fast no .

A progressive climb into boost would be nice and possibly do a little in the way of hoof balanced traction control .

Anyhow there should be results of such an upgrade soon .

Cheers A .

  • 2 years later...

havent heard to much about gcg's highflow r33 turbo?? any comments?? Iv heard there 2k and rated at 450hp...therefore more then a 3071r and no port matching needed, also maybe more responsive?? and can put out 270rwkws on about 18psi....any 1 back this up? just thought it would be good to look into

The SK R33 cranked out 266Kw with a GCG Hi flow but it also had the larger Z32 300ZX OP6 type turbine housing , also found on some R34 GTt OE turbos . I don't remember the exact figure but the 0P6 turbine housing is supposed to have something like + 20Kw when machined to suit the GCG BB Hi Flows turbine wheel .

That car had porting/cams/better inlet/better IC/fuel system/management .

The big draw with these Hi Flows is that they look absolutely std in situ because externally they ARE std , all the factory heat shields obviously go back in as does all the original oil/water/exhaust/air plumbing bits .

I understand that the "Batamble ?" front exhaust pipe actually bolts up much more easily that the std and aftermarket "dump pipes" because it comes straight out behind the turbo before it ducks down and under . Tight bends straight off the dump flange are a PITA because the lower fasteners are a bitch to get at .

I need an easy solution for my R33 and I have an 0P6 housing so may be a good thing with that front pipe .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...