Removing Rb26 Sump Without Taking Motor Out

[Duncan]

OK...I have a faulty oil pump and need to change it. Oil pump can't come off without the sump dropping at least 2cm to clear the bottom of the pump.

So I either need to take motor back out to take sump off and change it, or should I give it a go just dropping the sump.

I was thinking....undo intake, undo engine mounts, hoist motor until it is hard against bell housing. undo all sump bolts (drill through ribbing at bottom rear of bellhousing where the 3 are covered by the flywheel).

pull off the oil pump. clean the old sump gasket goop and put it all back together.

Looking at all that I am think I will do it motor out, it is only an hour or 2 extra and I know I won't come across any unexpected suprises that way.

[Godzilla32]

Or you could just use an engine prop from the top to hold the engine while you remove the crossmember etc.

[Bumblebee]

u gotta remove the crossmember and support the motor frmo the top.. very heavy stuff btw

u should just pull the motor out

[Swiper the Fox]

pull the engine out...takes about 2hrs in a racecar...our record is 1 1/2 hrs.

much easier...less stress...less pain.

[bnr#@]

Is it normaly a sump of job to change the oilpump?

[shanef]

Is it normaly a sump of job to change the oilpump?

yeh because the pressure relief is located inside the sump area

take er out duncan, that way u can buy some new goodies while ur at it

[giant]

yep donk out! whats wrong with it cracked??

[Duncan]

no, it was reassembled incorrectly after cleaning, the pressure releif valve is opening way too soon - max oil pressure is 200kpa not 600-800 at high revs as it should be

OK looks like motor out it is. Has only been in there for 3 days mumph.

[Swiper the Fox]

no, it was reassembled incorrectly after cleaning, the pressure releif valve is opening way too soon - max oil pressure is 200kpa not 600-800 at high revs as it should be

OK looks like motor out it is. Has only been in there for 3 days mumph.

Bugger...ahh well practice makes perfect...should be getting real good at it now Dunc's.

we use a forklift to rip ours out...the ability to tilt the tongs forward and back is a real bonus.

[Duncan]

hmm wish it was my fault, but that is a story for another day.

we don't have access to a fork but were looking at one of those tilting lifty bracket thingies. we have to tilt it a log way for the extended sump to clear the sway bar so we are always moving, stopping, tiliting to adjust again.

but I guess its time to stop complaining and just suck it in. at least I know what I am doing this weekend

[Risking]

Ive had my sump off many times.

Why pull the entire thing out again when the subframe is easy to remove. Just take the callipers off, undo the strut tops, undo the NSF drive shaft and pop the OSF shaft out of the diff, steering knuckle and the subframe is held in with 8 bolts. There's always a few extra bolts hold the odd line or bracket but nothing drastic. Sometimes its easier to loosen off the bell housing bolts and slide the box back 10mm or so.

Leave the radiator and all the pipes/hoses etc etc etc all in place by using a engine sling.

You can get all the sump bolts easily and the pressure releif valve is right there.

Yours choice but id be removing the bottom half.

Edited March 27, 2008 by Risking

[700HP-GTR33]

Not an easy job......

Was quoted on replacement oil pump because my seal was always going.

The work shop thought it would be easy....bugger....it was like 2 cm's off fitting, could not even lever it cause it

might have caused damage to the pump.(N1 pumps have a lower pick up)

Have you got a stock pump replacement or N1 variety?

I was told a stock one does not need the engine out.........correct me if I am wrong.

They did what Risking suggests.

Would have been easier to take the motor out at the end.

[STATUS]

yeah motor out, those 4 small 10mm at the back of the sump suck harcore to remove with box attached too...

im in the same boat as you... cat cracked the sump last round so i had it out on the monday... cut up another good sump (removed diff etc) and put it back in on the friday ready for gazzanats..... then we just lost our engine so its back out again (i must admit it did ok for a high kay stocky, having done a full season and well over 120k in the donor car) and am flat out building it for the next DA round.... stupid donuts during demo spun a bearing... another lap at calder practice finished it off

[rb26s13]

OK...I have a faulty oil pump and need to change it. Oil pump can't come off without the sump dropping at least 2cm to clear the bottom of the pump.

So I either need to take motor back out to take sump off and change it, or should I give it a go just dropping the sump.

I was thinking....undo intake, undo engine mounts, hoist motor until it is hard against bell housing. undo all sump bolts (drill through ribbing at bottom rear of bellhousing where the 3 are covered by the flywheel).

pull off the oil pump. clean the old sump gasket goop and put it all back together.

Looking at all that I am think I will do it motor out, it is only an hour or 2 extra and I know I won't come across any unexpected suprises that way.

i have done it.. and the part in bold sucks the most

other than that its pritty simple

proper brace to hold engine in place

than drop cross member and attack those farken things at back get to back sump bolts.. really really not fun

Edited March 29, 2008 by rb26s13

[Duncan]

yeah I wussed out and did it the old fashioned way.

3 hours paul I don't know how you do it in 1.5 when it takes me 1hr for the top start motor bolt and 30 min for that stupid wierd plug on the gearbox harness lol. Would be heaps quicker with a hoist maybe one day.

and the bloody drivers side cv seperated instead of slipping out of the diff - happens about 1 time in 10 to us gee I feel lucky it was tonight

[tacker]

i feel ya pain mate lol