Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so a guy in the USA on G35driver.com has finally decided to sell the paddle shift kit he was makign for the G35 and V35.. for a while it looked like he pulled out but has finally offered it if he gets 10 people

it uses paddles from a G37/V36/R35 skyline linked with a custom control box..

unfortunately he is selling the kit which included brackets, paddles, and control box for $750!

i thought i would post it up in case anyone was interested. i was keen, but at that price i'm not so sure anymore..

the thread: http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183031

the paddles:

paddleNew1.jpg

paddleNew2.jpg

the shifters on their own are $150 retail

maybe there might be a cheaper solution?

heaps of others in the USA have adapted the paddles themselves without any kit..

chris, interested in working out your own brackets and control box :D ?

haha nah i know you have a lot on your plate right now..

anyway thought i would post it in case others were interested

cheers,

Warren

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212177-paddle-shifters/
Share on other sites

would be easier to use a GT8 setup I think. so - shroud,paddles,brackets. dont see anything about a custom box there. figure it would tag off the '+' & '-' triggers on the main shifter.

next GT8 I get I'll pop the wheel off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212177-paddle-shifters/#findComment-3748753
Share on other sites

To be perfectly honest Waz, I see too much effort and money for little gain.

To me, it's like something you want when you don't have them, but when you have them you aren't into them.

I use them like once in a blue moon. As they don't rotate with the steering wheel, they aren't practical for driving fast which is why you would have it in the manual mode in the first place. Twisty bits at speed forget about it. The shifter is just so much easier and perfect to flick up and down. I say borrow a GT-8 for a few days and then see how you feel.

I must admit though they do look cool though:-

post-2302-1206586800_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212177-paddle-shifters/#findComment-3749956
Share on other sites

If it doesn't rotate with the steering wheel then probably it'll be better to just re-wire the up n down gear shifter so pushing forward is downshift and pulling back is upshift. That's probably a more worth it mods. Might have to get some nice + & - stickers to stick on top of the original ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212177-paddle-shifters/#findComment-3752002
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
  • 12 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...