Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i bought a boss kit off GKtech, really good service and got hear quick to. but now ive installed it, i got the blinkers clicking back, but the steering wheel isnt.

its asif i have it on to tight or something, when i loosen it up, it starts to go back but not as quick as stock would, plus its on loose for it to do that. when its on tight, its also harder to turn.

anyone know whats it from? i really want to know, its worse then driving without powersteering, really annoying me. should i go get the pricey just jap ones? (dont wana spend another 100$ on useless mods)

cheers, issa.

Yeh, this is a common problem with Skylines and boss kits. Ur boss kit doesnt have HICAS, so the computer shuts it down, which is why it is so hard to turn. You can modify your new one with the old sensors, but its easier to buy a new one. I bought mine from a shop called MALZ, but I think Super Cheap sells it? If not, other shops should have them. The boss kits are made by HTB or something like that. Not sure exactly, but its close enough. Good luck!

i just took it for a drive, seemed much better, i did some of my own modifications. got electric tape under the sensors, enough so i could push down and it would stay up, then taped around them both (note thats why i put tape under so i could do so). taped around them so there stuck to the boss kit lol, im running no back plate on the boss kit, just the tape (acts like the back plate), but i still have the steering wheel not so tight. im thinking if i get the HKB ones, would it feel just like stock, or does it still have the same drama's?

cheers, issa.

*edit* thanks so much for the reply mate, really appreciate it.

Edited by phat_man

yea man, bought a HKB hicas one 2day from justjap for 99, its awesome, powersteering works perfectly, and doesnt seem like the steering wheel is on to tight when i tighten it up. the other one from gktech is hopeless for hicas, got the blinkers to click back but it was still crap. HKB hicas FTW.

now its awesome, just like stock but better wheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...