Jump to content
SAU Community

S/h R34 Gtr... A Few Questions Please

Phatboy

By Phatboy,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I'm new here, although I have been browsing the forum for a few months now... this is my 2nd post after my intro on the newbie page.

I am buying a R34 GTR in the next week or two. There seems to be many knowledgeable people here, so I would be really grateful if you could help me out with a few questions:

How often do you guys get pulled over by the cops for "routine" inspections even though your car looks stock, sounds stock and your driving is tame?

Why I ask is I really like this moderately mod'ed GTR with stock engine/turbo/intercooler, but has

HKS split dumps

HKS front pipe

HKS hipower catback

HKS adj cam gears (IN/EX)

HKS timing belt with Trust clear cover

Apexi pods

Apexi powerfc adjustable boost

Nismo twin plate clutch (super coppermix)

269rwkw

(Please find a photo of engine bay attached)

Apart from the PowerFC which I can just hide if I get pulled over, and assuming the noise level is ok, do you think this setup has detectable defectables?

Also, the car has had to have a right rear wheel ball bearing replaced. Does this mean it has been driven hard? The owner says no...

The gearshift knob looks quite worn, even though it is a 01' model with 50ks on it. The owner actually imports cars (not his primary job) but this is his private ride.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

post-49469-1206792055_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212587-sh-r34-gtr-a-few-questions-please/
Share on other sites
krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

Welcome mate

First question i would ask is why a car with 50'000km would have a really worn out gear knob and a timing belt already changed.

Just be careful. Gets all the necessary checks done before you buy it.

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow that's the fastest reply I ever got to any post on any forum... thanks krzysiu

Maybe it was driven a lot and then they changed the tacho display set? The kms will be the ones on the new set right?

Or maybe it was just thrashed around.... probably more likely?

The owner is more than happy for any mechanical inspection. I guess you would recommend an RACV comprehensive check?

Thanks.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

RACV is useless :)

Take it to one of the many respected w/shops round Melbourne, they will know what to look for and how the car should drive etc.

worn g'knob and changed timing belt do not add up to 50K. It's easy to change the dash or even re-program it, so treat that reading with caution.

Changing a wheel bearing could also mean that the car was in an accident or that he lost control and guttered it.

Get it checked out properly. Trusted w/shops could be found in the "sticky" on the top of the Victoria forum.

If you live in the West/North side my mechanic is listed below.

PS: If you buy the car ask for the stock items, just in case you do get epa'ed. Especially the ecu (which has the true km reading stored).

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ah ok. Cool thanks, I will keep those workshops in mind.

Basically I'm just trying to decide whether to go with light-moderately modded cars or stock GTRs. I really don't need the headache of getting defected, so I would be happy with the stock ones if that's what it came to. Do they even defect things like dump pipes/cam gears? Maybe I should ask this in the EPA sticky?

I have read the excellent "what to look for when buying a secondhand skyline" post but wondering if there is anything specifically about R34 GTRs that have the potential to go wrong and that I have to look for when buying.

Thanks.

saff_cossie Grand Master

saff_cossie

Posted
Posted

Cambelt is often changed as a precaution more than anything. Relatively inexpensive compared to a rebuild if it snaps.

Worn gearstick can be a good indicator but again could have had a nice expensive Nismo item that has been replaced. Seat bolsters, bodywork, panel alignment would help build a picture too. Ben at Racepace knows his stuff in Bayswater and is popular on here. :D

In answer to the question about defecting, it depends on where you drive, how much you drive and how you drive.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
In answer to the question about defecting, it depends on where you drive, how much you drive and how you drive.

Yes it does, you don't have a list of illegal mods there which is a good start. The boost controller and ECU are illegal under EPA rules but its unlikely to get noticed.

The pods may attract a little attention if they check the car but its not illegal unless you changed the FMIC as well.

br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted

You guys over east seem to have so many rules in regards in modified cars...

Maybe you guys should consider coming over west! Not nearly as much rules about modifying your car over here!

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys for all the replies.

Just went to see most of the remaining R34 GTRs for sale in Melb today. There's someone selling one in Leongatha but a 2 hour drive's a fair way away for a test drive, unless I'm on my way to Phil Island... but I only aim to go there for the track after I get my GTR. I'm sick of seeing the penguins already. Has anyone seen the Leongatha one?

I was very impressed by the 3 Nurs I test drove/rode in today. As the car will be my daily driver though, a Nur is pretty much overkill and I should stick with the cheaper GTRs. Yeah I plan to get a mechanical inspection at one of the trusted garages before buying.

With regards to rust, has anyone actually seen an R34 with rust before? I haven't... must be pretty rare, or I'm not looking in the right places :worship:

I just have two more to see in Car dealerships before deciding. Anyone have any experience with GTA Autos on Spencer St or Victorian Auto Market in Fawkner?

Thanks.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Incorrect...its done in the odometre

I am pretty sure the ecu also stores the km reading as well, read it in one of the mag's.

They stated the cluster is easy to change, but you can check the ecu and it will have it's true reading still.

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted (edited)
I am pretty sure the ecu also stores the km reading as well, read it in one of the mag's.

They stated the cluster is easy to change, but you can check the ecu and it will have it's true reading still.

Ok,what you read in the magazine is correct....Ive had the R34 gtr apart to a bare shell,ive had the bonnet's open on most of the computers that are in the car,reprogrammed the anti theft box's on about 5 car's due to lost keys and could tell you what every wire in the car does and what colour it is.....the mags must be right

Edited by ylwgtr2
archie01 Community Regular

archie01

Posted
Posted
Ok,what you read in the magazine is correct....Ive had the R34 gtr apart to a bare shell,ive had the bonnet's open on most of the computers that are in the car,reprogrammed the anti theft box's on about 5 car's due to lost keys and could tell you what every wire in the car does and what colour it is.....the mags must be right

No need to be abrupt about it.

It would have been nicer if your reply had more tact.

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted

the bottom line is i wouldnt have answered in the thread if the answer wasnt correct...or i would have included a "maybe".A lot of people post information that is not correct or "Ive heard",which is a big headache for someone looking for accurate info in the case of trying to resolve a problem or doing a diagnosis.

archie01 Community Regular

archie01

Posted
Posted
the bottom line is i wouldnt have answered in the thread if the answer wasnt correct...or i would have included a "maybe".A lot of people post information that is not correct or "Ive heard",which is a big headache for someone looking for accurate info in the case of trying to resolve a problem or doing a diagnosis.

Agreed 100% but i wasn't questioning the accuracy of your reply, just the diplomacy of it.

Nothing wrong with being nicer and still making your point, after all, we are a community here with the same interest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...