Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

F40s and F50s look the same, and are the same. Its just that the piston size is different on the leading pistons. I have never heard of the trailing pitson being anything other then 44mm

i agree the trailing piston is 44mm but there is variation in the leading piston sizes. AU and BA Falcons with the F50 kit have different piston sizes to change the pedal travel.

as djr said the F40s and Nissan Brembos are the same piston size so there should be no change in pedal travel. there's about a 10% piston area increase between the Nissan Brembos and the F50s with 40x44, which should make a noticeable difference.

Edited by Scooby
i agree the trailing piston is 44mm but there is variation in the leading piston sizes. AU and BA Falcons with the F50 kit have different piston sizes to change the pedal travel.

as djr said the F40s and Nissan Brembos are the same piston size so there should be no change in pedal travel. there's about a 10% piston area increase between the Nissan Brembos and the F50s with 40x44, which should make a noticeable difference.

Should ? :D

Doubt it. The volumetric (big words!) difference between the two callipers is:5550 vs 5309. ie 5%. Even less when you take into account the rears. Less still when you take into account all the other slop in the system eg fire wall deflection, pedal deflection, expanding hoses.....

Doubt it. The volumetric (big words!) difference between the two callipers is:5550 vs 5309. ie 5%. Even less when you take into account the rears. Less still when you take into account all the other slop in the system eg fire wall deflection, pedal deflection, expanding hoses.....

Hi Roy, yes I reckon it should. Or are you emphasising it WOULD? Anyway it's a moot point as DJR is right, it's 5% or less difference. So much for my calcs.

DJR not sure why the rears factor into diminishing the difference though, if they stay the same? It's still an increase in volume. As for firewall flex etc it's there anyway so the only variable is the volume change.

Do either of you know where I can get a seal kit locally for less than the $400 ;) or so I was quoted by a Brembo agent today?

Cheers

Hi Roy, yes I reckon it should. Or are you emphasising it WOULD? Anyway it's a moot point as DJR is right, it's 5% or less difference. So much for my calcs.

DJR not sure why the rears factor into diminishing the difference though, if they stay the same? It's still an increase in volume. As for firewall flex etc it's there anyway so the only variable is the volume change.

Do either of you know where I can get a seal kit locally for less than the $400 ;) or so I was quoted by a Brembo agent today?

Cheers

I dont think a driver will notice an adverse effect on pedal feel. I think its a matter of getting too carried away with numbers. ;) There is likely to be more difference in the old master cylinder and brake booster then from the change to F50s

What does the $400 include. Dust boots and pressure seals ? If its both then its not out of this world expensive. You may be able to get them for about $350, any cheaper and its because someone is robbing themselves :D

Hi Roy, yes I reckon it should. Or are you emphasising it WOULD? Anyway it's a moot point as DJR is right, it's 5% or less difference. So much for my calcs.

DJR not sure why the rears factor into diminishing the difference though, if they stay the same? It's still an increase in volume. As for firewall flex etc it's there anyway so the only variable is the volume change.

Cheers

Well because the brake pedal still needs to move the pistons in the rear clipers as well as the front. So you need to factor in the extra 2513mm per calliper.

Well because the brake pedal still needs to move the pistons in the rear clipers as well as the front. So you need to factor in the extra 2513mm per calliper.

the rears aren't changing, so they remain a constant. the difference in volume is on the front only, so if it's say 5% difference in the new front set up i don't see how the rears affect that. it's still a 5% difference. the volume of the rears doesn't have a different effect on a 5% greater volume front caliper than it does on a 10% greater volume caliper.

Roy the cost of seals in the US is about $45 / caliper.

does anyone have views on ideal brake bias ratios ie front vs rear brake torque factoring in pad, disc and piston size? let's assume pad compounds are not factored in although we know that this can affect the outcome.

does anyone have views on ideal brake bias ratios ie front vs rear brake torque factoring in pad, disc and piston size? let's assume pad compounds are not factored in although we know that this can affect the outcome.

That is a very hard thing to answer. Have you had your car corner weighed? I suggest you throw it on and accept the fact that the first few months/track days will be exploratory until you find the ideal setup. The ratio depends a lot on suspension, ride heights, weight distribution, tyre grip, CoG ... etc etc

coudn't agree more. i'm just pursuing this:

The most dramatic front-bias impacts are usually brought about by “big brake kits” which are not properly matched to the intended vehicle. Any time that a bigger front rotor is installed, there is a simultaneous need to decrease the effective clamping force of the caliper (installing smaller pistons is the easiest method) to offset the increased torque created by larger rotor effective radius. The objective is to maintain a constant amount of brake corner output (torque) for a given brake line pressure as Figure 6 illustrates. Unfortunately, too many upgrades do not take this factor into account, and those poor cars end up with both bigger rotors and larger pistons which serve to drastically shift the bias even more forward. While rock-solid stable under braking, stopping distances will go up dramatically.

from here:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brake...rformance.shtml

Sure you can read that. But how do you explain how an R32 GTSt running std calipers spaced out for 324mm, an increase of 44mm with std rotor and caliper at the back, with the same compounds all round wants to lock up rears well before the fronts? Even with a less racey pad out back the car wants to lock up rears?

Answer is the pitch of the car under suspension, an issue because of the soft springs and too low a front ride height. So sure, technically what is being discussed above is true, but there are so many other things going on when trying to stop the car that you can get it wrong when you look at parts in isolation

the rears aren't changing, so they remain a constant. the difference in volume is on the front only, so if it's say 5% difference in the new front set up i don't see how the rears affect that. it's still a 5% difference. the volume of the rears doesn't have a different effect on a 5% greater volume front caliper than it does on a 10% greater volume caliper.

Roy the cost of seals in the US is about $45 / caliper.

does anyone have views on ideal brake bias ratios ie front vs rear brake torque factoring in pad, disc and piston size? let's assume pad compounds are not factored in although we know that this can affect the outcome.

No the rears aren't changing, but they cannot be ignored.

The front volume is (per side) 5300mm2 (For the sake of the argument).

The rear volume is about half that at 2500mm2 (again for the sake of the argument).

So the brake pedal has to displace 7800mm2 of piston area per side prior to any calliper being changed.

If you add 250mm2 of area to the front the brake pedal has to displace 8050mm2 of piston area.

So the difference is then something like 3% as opposed to 4% or whatever the difference is for just the front callipers.

So in terms of pedal travel it is less significant than just looking at the front callipers.

In terms of bias most manufacturers (eg AP, Endless) appear to offer callipers with smaller piston areas & bigger rotors. To keep the bias constant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...