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Have answers to all questions except which timing light do you recomend for me to use on my Stag. Dont really want to spend big bucks as Ill probably only use it once or twice!

Hi All. Have a couple of questions... Just wondering where I check the level of the transmision fluid on a '97 RS Four?

Also Im approaching the 100,000 so I will be in need of a timing belt change, How much should i i be willing to pay? Also If someone had the part number for the belt that would be great.

I've read the how to's on doing the timing belt change and it doesnt seem to hard, if its going to be overly expensive Ill probably have a crack at it with a mate.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Edited by kidafa
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Changing the belt is really easy. We recently had a BBQ here in WA and 3 of us got it changed no problems. Follow the step by step guides you will find on here (especially the one by SydneyKid) and you can't go wrong

Have a look at the classifieds - There are quite a few that sell the originals as well as after market ones such as Gates belt kits etc. The only problem I could see with the Gates kits is they don't include fan belt, alternator belt etc etc but they do include stuff like front crank seals (that you can't use because you need to pull the sump off to fit them and to do that you need to get the engine out)

Oh, and the trans fluid level is checked on the dipstick, the same as any other auto.

ROFL!!! Behind the rocker cover up against the firewall

I must have spent about 3 hours staring at the engine bay, and my missus (the biggest mechanical n00b in the history of n00bness) was the one that finally found it.

Keep looking, it is there.

You don't really need anything flash as far as a timing light goes, as long as you can be assured that it's a reliable unit. I couldn't really recommend a specific light to you ('soc I've got no idea what's out there in the market), but for convenience's sake, try and source one that is self-powered (using batteries) so it's two less wires to get tangled up in the engine bay when you do check the timing.

Its in the sticky of DIYS and FIYS at the top of the page....

Here I am looking for an R33 guide, it's hidden in the Stagea section, who would have thunk it.

I'm going to give mine a go, I think I have enough mechanical skills after 3 years of modifying the Stagea to know what I'm doing. Just need to borrow a timing light from my brother in law and I'm set.

Would people recommend replacing the water pump after 200,000km? it doesn't seem to leak, but I'm not sure what condition the bearings/shaft are in. also the idler and tensioner pulleys, should they be replaced at 200,000km?

<snip>...... for convenience's sake, try and source one that is self-powered (using batteries) so it's two less wires to get tangled up in the engine bay when you do check the timing.

+11ty - If you have ever had a fan grab hold of the power leads of a timing light right in the middle of setting the timing on a grumpy old 308 (dizzy at the back of the engine, not a fun task at the best of times...) then you would join me in celebrating Nicks wisdom :D

Here I am looking for an R33 guide, it's hidden in the Stagea section, who would have thunk it.

I'm going to give mine a go, I think I have enough mechanical skills after 3 years of modifying the Stagea to know what I'm doing. Just need to borrow a timing light from my brother in law and I'm set.

Would people recommend replacing the water pump after 200,000km? it doesn't seem to leak, but I'm not sure what condition the bearings/shaft are in. also the idler and tensioner pulleys, should they be replaced at 200,000km?

Using the SK method I've done two S13, CA18s and my Stag. Never used a timing light at all. It just took the ECU a minute or two to realise.

Would people recommend replacing the water pump after 200,000km? it doesn't seem to leak, but I'm not sure what condition the bearings/shaft are in. also the idler and tensioner pulleys, should they be replaced at 200,000km?

might aswell do the waterpump while you have it stripped down, source rb30 easy to get and cheap,

goodluck.

AFAIK, they're exactly the same Leshy. That part of the block should be identical no matter which RB engine you have.

Also, I believe the N1 water pump is the best one to get - the blades have a different shape and backing which reduces cavitation.

Reading more into Timing adjusting in the forums... Reading a fair few post of people saying their lights read double the actual timing? Some people are saying this is becuase how the light is hooked up to the car.

Ive establishedi should purchase one that is externally powered, but what sort of conection should it use to connect to the car?

Reading more into Timing adjusting in the forums... Reading a fair few post of people saying their lights read double the actual timing? Some people are saying this is becuase how the light is hooked up to the car.

Ive establishedi should purchase one that is externally powered, but what sort of conection should it use to connect to the car?

Can you post a link? Because i am not sure what you mean by "double" the timing.

Reading more into Timing adjusting in the forums... Reading a fair few post of people saying their lights read double the actual timing? Some people are saying this is becuase how the light is hooked up to the car.

Ive establishedi should purchase one that is externally powered, but what sort of conection should it use to connect to the car?

Strange, I've never seen that, although it has been a while since I've needed to check the timing on anything. I have noticed that our self-powered one has a direction mark on it so that when you attach it to the spark plug lead (or whatever the RB25 uses in its place, seeing as it has coil-on-plug), that the spark plug is on one side and the "direction" of spark is a certain way, if that makes sense... :/

You shouldn't really need to check your timing afterwards, kidafa - just make sure that when you remove the belt that the timing gears (and therefore the camshafts) don't move, Make suer BEFORE you remove the belt that the crank and timing gears are all at TDC.

An example of what i mentioned: taken from:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Timing-Marks-t211594.html&hl=timing+light

you can use the loop but some timing guns have the problem of reading double, i have a super cheap 50 buck jobbie and it reads doulble the actual setting so the gun lights up at 30 deg but its actually at 15 deg

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