Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I plan to drive to qld soon to pick up some parts and enjoy a small holiday, I have a highflow I recently bought and wanted to bolt it on before I head up.

I currently have about 210rwkw with stock injectors, turbo and pump If I bolted on the highflow with the current fueling system and continued to run at the 11-13psi that my stocker runs at would it be just the same on the fuel system and not make the car run lean? I assume it would be the same as its same psi?

Currently the car has a nice smoke covered ass which obviously means its running slightly rich at some stage, mostly when I boot it and on idle Id say from the smell of the exhaust and smoke during booting. I would most likely get it on a dyno to check too but no point unless you guys give me some tips first :(

I just wanted to ask before I went as QLD, is where im heading and its not a short drive.

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212900-so-ive-got-a-highflow/
Share on other sites

It will be fine but due to the extra flow of the high flow over the standard turbo the tune will be slightly leaner than it was with the stock turbo

I advise you drop the boost down to about 8psi or under instead of the 11 - 13psi your running just to be safe

Other than that its all good just as long as you don't thrash its head off as you can't guarantee that the AFR is at a safe level

11-13 psi on stock turbo does NOT equal same "AIRFLOW" as 11-13psi on hiflow turbo.

Boost pressure does NOT equal same amount of air flow.

if you MUST use the hiflow, just run it off the wastegate spring setting (5 psi or whatever it is).

but then it would be laggy as shit.

^^ unless the engine magically became more efficient by adding a high flow the air flow at the same boost pressure would be equal wouldn't it?

Boost is a byproduct of how much air an engine can flow true? if everything else is the same the engine will only be able to flow the same ammount of air at a given amount of boost ... flame me if I'm wrong :(

In saying that however just leave the stock one on until you get back

Edited by BLK33T
11-13 psi on stock turbo does NOT equal same "AIRFLOW" as 11-13psi on hiflow turbo.

Boost pressure does NOT equal same amount of air flow.

yeah i had to explain that to my dad the other night lol

i was like:

imagine you have a container with 2 small holes air coming in the one side and out the other side and pressure in room is X

now if you make both holes larger you can still have the same pressure of X but it will flow more air :(

Right I see, Well the catch is the stock turbo will be swapped out when I get there for another turbo. So i felt strapping a highflow on and driving up would save the extra effort to remove it.

My current ecu is a Safc piggy back perhaps strap it on run 10 psi or less and drive up there not like im trying to win a race to get there, although that would be a nice run (save some time too)

Oh and dyno it to confirm its not leaning out

yeah i had to explain that to my dad the other night lol

i was like:

imagine you have a container with 2 small holes air coming in the one side and out the other side and pressure in room is X

now if you make both holes larger you can still have the same pressure of X but it will flow more air :(

I never like that analogy, as the engine is a closed system when the pressure is building up against the intake side...it's just the exhaust gas gets out quicker on the higher flowing part. If it was an open system like a jet-engine it would make sense :(

I never like that analogy, as the engine is a closed system when the pressure is building up against the intake side...it's just the exhaust gas gets out quicker on the higher flowing part. If it was an open system like a jet-engine it would make sense :(

well air comes in the front (air filter) and out the back (exhaust) but yeah...

i just used analogy with dad so he could see the two are not the same :(

Also, what is the diff if I run a Stock AFM or a Z32? Its obviously better at monitoring air but with a safc wont help to much.

Obviously this will change, oh if anyone is after a Safc Neo one will be up for sale from me after i get the PFC

Edited by DECIM8
Also, what is the diff if I run a Stock AFM or a Z32? Its obviously better at monitoring air but with a safc wont help to much.

Obviously this will change, oh if anyone is after a Safc Neo one will be up for sale from me after i get the safc

problem is if you flow LOTS of air stock AFM will max out - Z32 have bigger range...

ps im consfussed your selling SAFC Neo and Getting an SAFC?? As in a SAFC1???????

yeah maxes out and cant read much after a certain reading. "can" cause issues.

e.g.

I had my high flow turbo fitted with standard AFM. I was told to keep boost down because of the AFM maxing out. On the powerFC I wasnt spose to go over 5000 with the air volume read out (forget the correct term?) cause if I did, and if boost spiked a bit, good bye motor.

Got the z32AFM on, now it cannt got over 5000 - most I have had on the track with air flow was like 4600

much safer :D

Hope that kinda explains why, id it doesnt, I fail! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...