Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think pmu are a bit optimistic with the cold temp. I find they take one big brake to get them warm enough to work properly. They work okish when cold but the feel just isn't there.

$250 an end delivered from nengun atm. getting cheaper every day.

Actually, boz22n, could i get a pm off you about your supplier? I wouldn't mind trying another pad if it's only a couple of hundred an end

cheers

Dave

Edited by BHDave

I might have to try the CCX's out.

I tried the SSM's when I wore out a set of DS2500s (thinking they were CCX's for some reason) and wanted something with a higher temp range. They were rubbish. The pedal was wooden when cold, and they did have a slightly higher temp range but they started to fade heavily at the end of a session.

Personally i think DS2500s are the most over rated pad i haev tried. They are fine on the street, but nothing special on the track. I find they lack feel and are only a bit better then Race Brakes RB74 and about as good as Race Brakes Comp 2 pads.

I ran Endless CCX and love them. I have cracked a few set of rotors since installing these pads though, not sure if its related, could be?!?!?!?!?! But for stopping the car, no fade and to me the most important thing is feel and pedal modulation, best pad i have used. I have found the DS2500s feel pretty dead under foot with poor modulation in my car. I even tried a second set in case the first set were duds and the second set was no better.

So i would suggest trying one of the other brands that ppl are recommending

Tried one set of DS2500, the linings started to disentegrate. Ultimates were a lot better, nice feel if a little hard on rotors. Only on the intrawebs have I heard praise for the DS2500.

The Hawk HP+ link;

http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hpplus.php

Talking to the Hawk engineers at SEMA they were quoting 50 to 500'ish operating temeprature, that's at their high CoF.

Cheers

Gary

Personally i think DS2500s are the most over rated pad i haev tried. They are fine on the street, but nothing special on the track. I find they lack feel and are only a bit better then Race Brakes RB74 and about as good as Race Brakes Comp 2 pads.

I ran Endless CCX and love them. I have cracked a few set of rotors since installing these pads though, not sure if its related, could be?!?!?!?!?! But for stopping the car, no fade and to me the most important thing is feel and pedal modulation, best pad i have used. I have found the DS2500s feel pretty dead under foot with poor modulation in my car. I even tried a second set in case the first set were duds and the second set was no better.

So i would suggest trying one of the other brands that ppl are recommending

what caliper and disc are you running?

as i am running endless pad and havn't had any issue with cracking yet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...