Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guy's just asking the turbo guru's here if its possible to correct the massive mix match in housing/wheel design that is present in the gt2876r... the turbo is strapped to a rb25 and is rediculusly laggy for not alot of power or "punch" spec's are :

Turbine

-Wheel: 53mm w/ 62 trim

-Housing: .64 ar

Compressor

-Wheel: 76mm w/ 48 trim

-Housing: .70 ar

4inch front mouth

its for a moded std manifold...

please no suggestion's of changing turbo's etc at this time, as i would like to explore the possibility for changing housing's etc...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213319-2876r-downsize/
Share on other sites

say for example, 1 bar actuator presure. 2nd and 3rd gear approx fullboost @ 4500 rpm... this is untuned though, running old tune from std turbo, however i cant see the turbo getting anywhere below what i'd be happy with...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213319-2876r-downsize/#findComment-3768006
Share on other sites

Your call but your not going to fix that thing with housing alterations , the only genuine option is a larger .86 A/R turbine housing and that will only give it more turbine lag .

The problem is it has a modern low blade count light weight 54mm diameter turbine trying to drive a dinosaur 76mm T04S compressor wheel . Changing housings won't alter the fact that its compressor is a really bad match for its turbine .

Why Garrett continue to sell those POS things I'll never know .

IMO it has to go if you want you car to be lots better .

Sorry , A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213319-2876r-downsize/#findComment-3768439
Share on other sites

Are you sure about that turbine trim? It should be the same as a 2871 rear end.

The only way you could make that turbo usable is to replace the whole front end. I would suggest .5 A/R generic t04e comp cover and backing plate, with a 71mm 52 or 56 trim compressor.

By the time you get the work done and supply the parts it'd be cheaper and easier to just find a second hand replacement 2871 on NS and sell yours. They all seem to be going bigger these days for some reason, you may even find a sucker to buy yours :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213319-2876r-downsize/#findComment-3768884
Share on other sites

By the time you get the work done and supply the parts it'd be cheaper and easier to just find a second hand replacement 2871 on NS and sell yours. They all seem to be going bigger these days for some reason, you may even find a sucker to buy yours :D

no way.......NS members are way too astute than to buy a 2876 - thats only something a skyline driver would buy :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213319-2876r-downsize/#findComment-3770950
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...