Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had my car locked the other day but with the windows down (force of habit to lock the car) and realised that i had forgoten something so i reached in and unlocked the door grabbed my stuff and all of a sudden the horn started blarring at me. scared the bejesus out of me. has anybody come across this before in one of there cars. the importer that i got the car of didnt even realise it had an alarm. i have found a little switch on the d/s kick panel that turns of the flashing led on the dash but i havent gotten around to testing if it has anything to do with the actual alarm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213332-factory-upgraded-alarm/
Share on other sites

Has anyone else got the 'NISSAN SECURITY' arial/reciever unit that sits in front of the rear view mirror. I have and i dont know what its purpose it?

Not sure if this is related or not (dont want to hijack your thread)

Hmm yes I do, I thought it was a GPS antenna for my xanavi unit? Either that or something for the Toyota Electronic Toll Controller unit that's been installed...

Has anyone else got the 'NISSAN SECURITY' arial/reciever unit that sits in front of the rear view mirror. I have and i dont know what its purpose it?

Not sure if this is related or not (dont want to hijack your thread)

This little jigger is the antenna for the remote starter. It flashes when the alarm is armed. If you don't have the factory remote or the compliancer fitted an immobiliser it is practically useless except for looking pretty.

Dave, the Factory GPS antenna sits under the dash just in front of the clock. If you had the ETC toll collector unit, you would know as it is pretty obvious.

See here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Da...=remote+starter for more info on remote starter/alarms

Is it true that the Mongoose M80G will function in this way ie. off the Nissan key remote?

Not in my case - I've got the Nissan factory remote key, but I leave it at home and just use the copy I had cut, as it saves me from carrying around the bulky key AND the remote for the alarm.

I think the issue is that the Mongoose uses a rolling code remote, but the factory key doesn't.

This little jigger is the antenna for the remote starter. It flashes when the alarm is armed. If you don't have the factory remote or the compliancer fitted an immobiliser it is practically useless except for looking pretty.

Dave, the Factory GPS antenna sits under the dash just in front of the clock. If you had the ETC toll collector unit, you would know as it is pretty obvious.

See here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Da...=remote+starter for more info on remote starter/alarms

Thanks :devil: Yeah I have the ETC toll collector unit, it's a big box taped to the side of the centre console, and when you push buttons on it it says things to you in a female Japanese voice...

Thanks :thumbsup: Yeah I have the ETC toll collector unit, it's a big box taped to the side of the centre console, and when you push buttons on it it says things to you in a female Japanese voice...

uh huh "Insert your ETC card please". Pretty easy to remove. they normally patch it into your cig lighter power.

uh huh "Insert your ETC card please". Pretty easy to remove. they normally patch it into your cig lighter power.

ahh I wondered what it was she was saying lol

Not patched to ciggie lighter for me though, was a whole massive loom in there with about 10 metres of cable, cable tied up, with 3 wires, one of which was earth, and a whole custom short loom with a false plastic plug in the end that went nowhere... I'll try to get a pic of it all its crazy

Edited by DaveB
  • 10 months later...

sorry to bring up an old tread but i just bought a S2 stagea and its got the thing infront of the mirror and its got a retro looking remote thing as well.. i'll post a pic when i get home.. its got start/stop - check and alarm set on the unit. can't get it too start though, the dash lights come on but go off straight away.

sorry to bring up an old tread but i just bought a S2 stagea and its got the thing infront of the mirror and its got a retro looking remote thing as well.. i'll post a pic when i get home.. its got start/stop - check and alarm set on the unit. can't get it too start though, the dash lights come on but go off straight away.

yeah got the same things, cept mine is on what looks like mini mobile phone.

have you got a turbo timer installed ?

cause once i had my tubo timer installed, i can no longer use the remote start. but now if i push check it would tell me that the engine is off, temp inside the car and if its locked or not.

now with the turbo timer installed i push CHECK it will tell me that but the mirror's will fold out , the stereo will come on and the lights on the dash will come on also, then the turbo timer will switch on for 30seconds and everything will shut down.

so basically my factory alarm key from nissan is useless as it only locks and activates the alarm. and some times it doesnt de-activate and im left in a very messed up situation at shopping centers !! so its in no use anymore, just using the key with lock/unlock on it now.

hope that helps to your question :S

here are some photos of the remote unit and the reciever.. i played around with the remote and i can't get it to do much at all.. it beeps and the lights come on but thats about it. when you press the start button it beeps then the dash lights come on for about 1 sec then go off again. p.s i don't have a turbo timer installed

post-4857-1235291201_thumb.jpg

post-4857-1235291217_thumb.jpg

wow that looks different.

mine is the same setup with the buttons but i have a lcd screen on mine . . . . i once started my car from about 250meters away. i was on a hill though in my truck on a cold day. thought what the hell, got to my car engine was warm, had the heat on in the morning so it came on also, aswell as my seat warmers, bloody good idea. only thing is, when i open the door it shuts down. . . like a theft thing i guess

i have that remote and the thing behind the rear view mirror. but mine does nothing, i think during compliance the power was cut to it. there are some weird boxes under the steering wheel and some funny wiring thats been cut off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...