Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great work with your build. Its refreshing to see someone sharing their assembly process with such detail.

Now when someone has RB26/30 buld questions they can just come to your thread instead of being flamed for not using the search button (which produces more BS than real useful information).

Do you have a purpose in mind for the car? Drag, street, track or all of the above?

Hi, just wondering if you have felt the clutch yet, im looking at having to remove the clutch booster to fit my plenum. Also why did you go for the integra master cylinder instead of the original one?Was it due to the fact the stocker doesn't have provision for a fork?

Hi, just wondering if you have felt the clutch yet, im looking at having to remove the clutch booster to fit my plenum. Also why did you go for the integra master cylinder instead of the original one?Was it due to the fact the stocker doesn't have provision for a fork?

the clutch feels fine..i don't feel a different without the booster

Great work with your build. Its refreshing to see someone sharing their assembly process with such detail.

Now when someone has RB26/30 buld questions they can just come to your thread instead of being flamed for not using the search button (which produces more BS than real useful information).

Do you have a purpose in mind for the car? Drag, street, track or all of the above?

thanks ....

i will keep the updates going ..when i am back in canada..

i am currently traveling around tokyo and HK !

  • 3 weeks later...

more updates !

it's finally looking lik a car now!

with fuel system completed !!!

starting from the back

R0011046.jpg

R0011049.jpg

R0011065.jpg

R0011066.jpg

R0011050.jpg

fuel lines protector guard !

R0011055.jpg

fuel line holder

R0011051.jpg

R0011052.jpg

at the front

R0011068.jpg

dash completed ! glued the back together !

R0011061.jpg

heat sheild for turbo and down pipe

hand made wrap!

R0011039.jpg

R0011041.jpg

R0011070.jpg

R0011071.jpg

HKS to4Z turbo bell mouth machined to fit with my T78 greddy turbo

R0011072.jpg

R0011073.jpg

since the engine is 3inches taller...we made this angle down so i can use my billion rad hose instead of getting soemthing else

R0011045.jpg

polished PS tank

R0011043.jpg

so more work done @ Keep Performance Lab today ~

i must say these guys are so Good with Wires !!!

again keeping it clean is always on the top of the minds. so organizing the wires were very important as it is easier to work on as well as it looks alot nicer.

here are some pictures from today

R0011107.jpg

R0011106.jpg

R0011112.jpg

R0011120.jpg

R0011109.jpg

R0011118.jpg

back of the kill switch mounted where the rear wiper used to be

R0011103.jpg

attention to details

Keep Performance lab even got the Bolts on a OLD HKS coilover GOLD PLATED

R0011125.jpg

my external oil pickup as well as both the external head oil drain and turbo oil drain (had to reuse some old fittings as i don't have time to get new one anodize gold)

R0011123.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia body...
    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
×
×
  • Create New...