Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

After removing / reinstalling the radiator my Greddy guage was flashing a warning and not going about 30degrees, turns out one of the wires broke off the temp sensor, about 2mm away from the actual metal part of it, tried soldering and ended up breaking both wires off.

So where can I buy an aftermarket temp sensor?

Are they all the same?

Do I need to import one?

Regards,

Gareth

  paulr33 said:
hang on

which one is broken

the one that gives the signal for the stock guage

or the one that gives the signal for the ecu

they are different sensors

Really?

I thought the one at the bottom of the aftermarket radiator is the stock gauge / ECU. The PowerFC hand controller reads the temperature just fine right now.

There is also a temperature sensor at the top of the radiator, this has caused a gauge inside the car to flash "warning" constantly as its not getting a reading anymore. The gauge in the car is aftermarket, Greddy gauge.

Regards,

Gareth

if it is the standard sensor you are after go to autobarn, burson ect and ask for a tridon one and they will be able to get one off the shelf for you. seeming its an aftermarket rad it might be a different sized sensor take the old one in with you and if it is different one look in the back of the book and there will be a heap of diagrams so you can match it up.

  R32gts-t said:
if it's a greddy temp sensor that you need for a warning meter gauge

you will have to import one,

expect to pay about $89 incl delivery.

Ah right, yes its a greddy water temperature gauge and a greddy/trust radiator so that sounds like what I need.

I was hoping they used some kind of interchangeable part, its just 2 wires going to a temperature sensor in the top of the radiator.

The stock one at the bottom of the radiator is fine, the PowerFC can read the temperature without a problem.

  meat axe said:
if it is the standard sensor you are after go to autobarn, burson ect and ask for a tridon one and they will be able to get one off the shelf for you. seeming its an aftermarket rad it might be a different sized sensor take the old one in with you and if it is different one look in the back of the book and there will be a heap of diagrams so you can match it up.

Interesting idea, I'm not so sure about going back to Burson's after the last episode with them (gave me the wrong clutch fan about 3 times before they got it right).

But might be a good idea, as long as I can get an exact match.

Found an ebay auction which is selling the gauge with the thermostat, I just want the thermostat though:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Greddy-TRUST-Electr...1QQcmdZViewItem

Alright, think I've found one for a decent price:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...ShippingPayment

Bought for around ~$64 US delivered from the USA, brand new. Relatively cheap I think :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...