Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah you gotta wonder why these rims cost under $1k for a set, yet decent Jap rims go for 3 times+ that amount .... so you know they are made of shit alloy and will break, yet you're looking to buy another one and keep running them on your car? WTF?

Pics look porn by the way - I haven't seen your car before, and normally don't like white wheels on a white car, but yours looks the goods :banana:

But i figure at the moment, a replacement rim is my cheapest option (compared to a new set of rims). I dont use my car for track work, only a weekender. Surely even these weak wheels can handle that.

Cheers for the positive comments, im liking my white on white atm :spank:

some of the ones ive seen failed have been street driven. not tracked... you gotta remember bumps and pot holes introduce all sorts of stresses to through the wheels and the rest of the car if the quality isnt there to start with then its only a matter of time before fatigue sets in and they fail. they are made of a low grade cast alloy.

Well dad bought home the extreme clutch brochure, and he said he definately didn't get a button clutch, so its either the Extreme Heavy Duty Organic Cushioned, or the Heavy Duty Steel backed.

nice clutch either of them.....your ride looks awesome mate....clean as....ohh take your wheel to extensive wheel servises on south road and see what they can do to fix it up mate.....i had my wheel done there and they did a freaking awesome job....really happy with it.....what happened to my wheel you ask...well i snaped all 5 studs, which is really bazaar....and that made 2 nut holes into 1...took it to them and they were able to fix it all up for really cheap....every other place in town were like this wheel is stuffed and here is a brochure about different packages

Just had a call from my dad.

My mechanic has removed gearbox, fitted new clutch, full service and tune including platinum plugs, synthetic trans oil and $80 engine oil, the dump pipe didn’t fit so he made it fit, spend over 3 hours on it, brake pads are 2 weeks off death so he’s done them as well. So my labour plus extras bill has come to a grand total of $950. and that’s at mates rates, usually $1700.

And I get her back tonight. So that’s at least something for me to smile about.

Adelaide wheel and rim did stuff all for me....the guy had a quick glance and said mate this wheel is stuffed and here have a look at the different wheel packages....from memory extensive wheel services is just across the road and i went there the dude there did a proper inspection and said $230 it will be all done.....they even did the lip on my wheel which had a tonne of scratches on it....very happy with the service there

Adelaide wheel and rim did stuff all for me....the guy had a quick glance and said mate this wheel is stuffed and here have a look at the different wheel packages....from memory extensive wheel services is just across the road and i went there the dude there did a proper inspection and said $230 it will be all done.....they even did the lip on my wheel which had a tonne of scratches on it....very happy with the service there

I got a crack in my rim fixed at extensive, welded and re-rolled, wheel came back as new. Very happy with the work and the quote was around $50 cheaper than across the road. Adelaide Wheel and Rim said they don't do the welding themselves, they send it off (probably just across the road)

yeah i took a rim that needed welding to Adelaide wheel and rim service and he said he couldn't fix it, i didn't take it across the road maybe i should and for my other rim that had a little bend wanted some ridicules price to fix it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...