Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would not trust my line with $90 tyres full stop , but for a few extra bucks It could save your life or someone else's .

High power car with cheap tyres , Why dont you just drive your cars on an ice road . (just plain stupid)

Do your research first boys and girls .

They tell you that 20% rule of thumb, just to sell more tyres :D

Well better an experienced driver/racer on 20% worn Continentals or Bridgestones, than a P-plater hoon with race rubber.

Cheap price does not mean cheap tyre.

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

looks like i'll be after a cheap set of rears for my car to cover a few months before i have some spare cash for good ones, all these trips to melbourne have killed my tires, just a cheap set of bridgestones will have to do (don't want to go to crap)until i get them fitted my car is off the road :D

I'm selling the track bike now, with tyre warmers, race stands, spare gearbox, fairings, levers etc.

Ready to hit the track, ready to race.

2002 GSXR 600

$5000 for quick sale

thats a decent deal IMO

any engine work?

Im a fan of the hankook k104 ventus tyre

17's but Im sure you can find 18's somewhere

not much road noise, good sidewalls, dont get out of hand either on a 200kw stagea

thats a decent deal IMO

any engine work?

Engine is stock on the inside, although it comes with a full Leo Vince race system, 750 USD forks, RaceTech valves etc.

I do have Yoshimura adjustable cam gears and cams to go into it, I just never got around to it (after the workshop had my bike for 6 weeks and still hadn't fitted them before a race day, so I took my bike back and never went back to finish the job).

Its a decent deal because I have too many bikes ... I won't be racing this season due to broken shoulder ... so I'm selling for quick sale.

  • 2 years later...

I smashed my 34 because I bought shit tyres which went hard quickly (well harder than when I bought them) and then I spun the car and put it in the wall .. Write off.. High performance car, high performance tyre.. no other option unless you use it as a daily and dont put your foot down (which if anyone says is them is a lier!)

learn to drive? :)

haha as long as you got good tyres up front and have decent car control you shouldnt be having any issues... :( everyone loves a bit of fishtailing.

unles youre still running hicaids... then get rid of that shit too :D

/shit stirring

The issue is that he dug up an old thread from 2 years ago, in which the OP's question was extensively answered, and added to irrelevant garble that would be MUCH better suited for discussion in the wasteland. If every user went and dug up an old post and posted some crap in it, imagine what the forums would look like in a weeks time. You need to examine the other side of the coin once in a while guys.

too true, it can go to shit pretty quick. i dont really need to know about someone looking for replacement valve caps in 1989

on the flip side i should get mad props for posting a humorous yet relevant picture

on the flip side, i might be considering 18" rims (which I am) and wondering about what other people on the forums are paying for their 18" tyres...

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...