Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys... This is how my front bar looked before http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=137112 but now i've got my stock type M front bar cut so i can fit it with the cooler there.. wasnt easy and the front bar really had to be pushed to fit and the bar is kind of pushing the intercooler a bit but yeahh its on there at least lol..

Anywhoo i used to scrape that old front bar because it was really low... but now that ive changed the front bar when u look at the car u can see the cooler pipe under the car and its so low that instead of scraping the front bar, sometimes im scraping the cooler pipe!!!! I had one of my mates install the whole FMIC for me, its not the usuall FMIC piping its the ones where the pipe go around so it didnt require u to cut through the chassis (so i didnt have to get a engineers certificate).. Does anyone know how much it would cost and whats the exact name if i wanted to get a new one of these sets? It would be kind of a waste since i spent $800 for the FMIC installed so i was thinking instead of getting a new cooler and piping and everything, is there a way to get the cooler moved up or get a new pipe made that wouldnt be so low and wouldnt end up costing me heaps? Ive heard aluminium welders could make me one but it would end up costing me heaps so im not too crash hot about doing that..

What are my options here? Im not too intercooler saavy so any help would be great..

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214165-fmic-piping-too-low/
Share on other sites

depending on just how far out it is, you can move it a fair bit without having to cut pipes etc. i had the opposite problem, where my greddy one was too high by about 5 cm. lowered it about 6 without having to change much, just loosen the joiners and give it a try. i did have to make a new bracket tho.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...