Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i might even try to put up clear plastic so they can be seen.

try perspex....

i want to mount both the subs in the middle of the boot with amps on each of the sides.. (with lighting) and having it carpeted and with perspex casing for the amps.. but what im trying to sort out is how i can access the amp/sub wiring if the box is one huge joined thing..

In my holden "YES LOL" i have done what u guys are after i have a dual sub box for 2 12inch subs with clear back and polystrine balls bounceing up and down the with the amp also in a custom area. i spent around $300 tops on my custom install ihave neons in the box, and 12v coloured down lights for bunnings shinnying over the amp.

i will get some pics for u guys soon to show u what i have down , and to help u do the same.

all u need is some small background info on electronics and building boxes.

prespix is not the best idea as neons can affect the prespix casuing it to weakin, try a product called LEXEN

cheers.

im installing mine atm.. 2 subs facing out the back of the car with 2 amps either side and big 4channel for speakers in the middle infront of the subs under perspex with red neon..

a mate of mine is doing that so im not to sure who does the best ones and has the best prices etc..

cheers

I am in the middle of an install atm.. but I am only installing one 12" sub on the right hand side of the boot. (wanted to take up as little room as the boot is already small!) as for the amp it is mounted on the right hand side of the battery well. Fits perfectly with a couple of aluminium brackets. I was also thinking of building a perspex window in so i could see the amps... So for it has cost me $40 for all the wood an the aluminium all from bunnings... All I need now is some carpet to cover the sub box when im done and this should be pretty cheap option... i'll post some pictures tomorrow of where I am up too. :D

my install in my avatar cost me 250 bucks with all the work done by myself, when i can afford some better subs ill put the amps on either side of them, at the moment i have 2 different sized amps so i want to wait to get another amp so i have 1 for each sub and put them on either side.

Hi Lads,

You've gotta fibreglass! This is an absolute pain in the ass job, that gets messy and annoys tf out of you, but the results are awesome!

I helped do a job on my mate's Eunos 30X, we built two custom moulds that fit exactly into the boot (we had to build them mostly in the boot) and housed two 10'' and two 6X9's. Turned out awesome, and actually not too bad for tuning.

The beauty about Skylines is that they have larger boots to play with. To do this, firstly build a timber frame, then a fibreglass moulding for this frame, and finish off with bog to shape and smooth - very nice.

It took the two of us two weeks working every night and two whole weekends, but they are sweeeet!

romp you mean inverting subs, thats when you have them upside down, a sub in a box needs a certain amount of air for it to work, the advantage of inverting a sub is you can have a small box, and see the back of the sub, but it will work exactly the same weather the boxes are seadled or ported.

there really is no reason in having them, except for room, like in my case, i only have 3 cubic feet spare for sub box, soo its all going to be sub, and i am taking the parcel shelf out of the hatch, and actually having the subs on the top of the box, only because i need 1.5 cubic feet per sub to have htem ported

Argh so complicated... hahahahha...

im looking at building a curved second "wall" in the boot, having the 2 larger subs at the back (facing forward), then the 2 smaller subs outside of them facing inwards (slightly), then having the amps mounted on the internal walls...

Ah i duno...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
×
×
  • Create New...