Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 7 months later...

i know im bringing up the dead, but its better than making a new one.

is there any changes i should work with?

since im having ER34 N/A and i'm dropping off RB25DET NEO. what about the flywheel? pull push clutch, gearbox? turbo lines?

any more detail information could save my $$$ eventually.

cheers.

the whole undercar setup between N/A's and turbo's are difference. after picking out the differences, youll look at it and realise just how different the two models are...both look the part though :P

the whole undercar setup between N/A's and turbo's are difference. after picking out the differences, youll look at it and realise just how different the two models are...both look the part though :angry:

Tell me about it! Worse it seems if you own a Sedan ~_~ Unless of course if it's a GTV

R34 GT doesn't have HICAS (4 wheel steering) Traction Control (TCS) or Limited Slip Diff (LSD)

R34 GT does have an LSD as an option - Its on the original R34 Skyline brochure from Japan - RB25DE models only :P.

i read the manuals, it says the N/A one use R200V lsd type.

but how about the tie rod, castor rod, camber rod?

i know they have different rear suspension setup, does it means i have to look for a different rear swaybar and anti-rollbar as well?

well, at least im getting a r32 gtr brakes now.

cheers.

  • 1 month later...

Sorry to revive an old thread, but i thought it was better to revive one then to create another identical one. Basically im looking for a way to check if my engine is originally from a turbo or non turbo R33. eg if the person just bolted on turbo bits or if they changed the whole engine. I know my skyline was originally (factory) non turbo as the badges are blue, open diff (until i got to it...) and no hicas.

I know the compression seems to be the only difference and thus i will do a compression test once i get my compression tester back from my brother..

Can you tell anything from the engine number??

Mine is: 181875A

cheers guys.

Is there little-to-no lag? aka pretty much instant boost? Badges doesn't mean everything, but blue badges are typically on N/As.

Are the wheels and brakes R33 GTSt items? 4 stud wheels and 2 pot front and 1 pot rear calipers were the go on GTS, whereas GTSt has 5 stud wheels and 4 and 2 pot calipers.

I'm not entirely sure from the engine number, I would assume that you can get some info from it.

Is there any Queensland mod plate to evidence any engine change?

Could even be that the owner put blue badges to fool other people in the know into thinking that it's an N/A.. but then like you said open diff and no hicas... Not many people do bolt-on conversions.

Do you have pics of the engine bay and other areas to try and discern whether it's a bolt-on, engine conversion, or just a bit strange?

my Na r34 has red GT badges :) they were there when i bought it tho.

And for the R34's, isnt it like ER34 for the GT's and something like HR34 for GTT's?

You could also check the coil packs??? different coils between turbo and non turbo

p.s

in New Zealand you can search the number plate and it gives you all the information about the car and what it was imported as etc etc

Edited by R34 -_-

i think he wants to make sure that his engine hasn't been swapped, not if the car itself is orignally a turbo.

the easiest way to tell if it is a turbo motor that has had the turbo removed would be to put it on a dyno. if it makes over 100kw then it is a NA motor, LOL.

you could probably also look for blocked up oil and water lines. although i guess that you would be able to tell if it was originally a turbo motor just by driving it. if you test drove other NAs when you were buying yours then you would know straight away. a turbo converted to NA would be dramatically slower than a stock NA. if you get easily beaten by v6 commodores would be another indication, LOL

N-DAWG,

Yeh there is little or no lag coming onto boost, the wheels are the typical 5 stud r33 pattern. I know that the badges aren't everything though it was the complete absence of any sign of the hicas system which really set me off.

There are no modification plates on the chassis beyond the usual import plates. Thus im thinking that the conversion could have been completed before it was imported though Im really not sure. I'll grab some pics and post them up today.

R34- -,

I know about the coil packs, though they would be easy to switch them over.

What im looking at is seeing if the motor is a turbo or non turbo from factory. Reason for this is obviously about the compression ratio in the engine and my ability to boost it up. As it sits I can't see anything on the engine itself that points me in either direction...

Cheers guys

that will only tell you what sort of motor it was supposed to have (turbo or non turbo and what capacity). won't tell you the engine number to see if it has had a replacement engine put in that was the same type though.

  • 1 month later...

Hate to tell you, but FAST won't tell you what vehicle an engine number came from: However i can certainly help out HERE

This is my data on the above.

I am releasing a website next month dedicated to RB's with a much more comprehensive list.

As for differences the heads are a different casting in R34 non turbo to turbo, have smaller ports and runners, which is to do with torque.

if your more interested, PM me and i have allot more information.

Hate to tell you, but FAST won't tell you what vehicle an engine number came from: However i can certainly help out HERE

This is my data on the above.

I am releasing a website next month dedicated to RB's with a much more comprehensive list.

As for differences the heads are a different casting in R34 non turbo to turbo, have smaller ports and runners, which is to do with torque.

if your more interested, PM me and i have allot more information.

just so you know, if your website mentions RB standing for "race bred" i'm going to find the server it is located on and set it on fire.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...