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Thinking of installing a boost bleed valve and setting it to 10psi have a vew questions first though.

What Roughly would the power gain be from standard?

Should I considor more or less boost (93 gtst manual with exhaust and blow off valve)?

Will standard ECU be ok or will I need SAFC?

Anything I should considor before doing this?

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Hi Munna,

How's it going?

Is the car totally stock?

The standard boost in your car will have a dual stage system in that the boost will increase a couple of psi at 5000 rpm..

If you install a boost gauge first (simple) then a bleed valve you will have 10 psi from as little as 2500 rpm all the way through the rev range... much better mid range and as Robo's said you can expect at least 10-15 rwkw's...

One thing you will notice with the stock intercooler is heat soak.....

Regards

Rob

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Thanks robo sounds great.

One question where is the best place to plumb the boost controller? Read an article on autospeed. But installing the valve in this way does not seem to increase the boost from factory until it hits 3500 in the rev rage.

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0028/P_1/article.html

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if the car is totally stock - including the exhaust and airbox, can you still increase the boost i.e 10 psi on a ceramic turbo - i have a 97 model, without any problems. Is it worthwile doing this or should i be getting an exhaust first.

thanks.

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Again me not knowing much i have a qn. And i think im correct when i say this:

->its safer to boost your car to 12psi if u have a FMIC, POD, and Exhaust (ie: air flow for your car)

->your car will perform better if u have these mods and u boost your car to 12psi than having a stock car with 12psi.

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Ok..

Your all pretty much correct.

I started off with a stock standard R33 series 2 (96 model).

First thing I did was put a bleed valve system in. Put the boost to 11psi.

When it comes to installing the valve I totally disconnected the two small lines that connect to the boost solenoid and put a bleed valve between them. I then put a second bleed valve between the Intercooler piping and the wastegate.

This did two things..

1- It got rid of the dual stage boost sytem (in that it was boosting 11 psi from as little a 2600 rpm). I noticed the turbo starts to spool at about 2200 rpm and hits max at 2600rpm..

Alos noticed a massive increase in mid range torque & sounded much better...

2 - the 2 bleed valves helped the system with spiking and it was a very constant 11 psi of boost (no matter what gear).

From there I started noticing heat soak... It would happen after 2 good spirited runs.. Then you pull up to a set of light and try and do it again.... you will feel it. (usually only in warm weather..)

with regards to exhaust systems, if you install a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back this will increase boost a couple of PSI (especially higher in the rev range).

From a full exhaust and 10-11 psi of boost (everything else stock) you should expect to see about 150-160rwkw's... That is about 20-35 rwkw's minimum increase.

to be continued.

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I would always suggest to anyone with Summer comming to get a FMIC..

Mine is not big but very efficent (especially for the power I have).

My car had:

- air filter

- boost at 9 psi

- FMIC

& I got 163 rwkw's (on unigroup dyno).

Keep in mind the standard ECU in these cars is SH%T.. I have had no end of problems with mine...

Once I installed a full 3" exhaust and try to dyno it again with 11 psi I had a gapping hole at the high end of the rev range...

With the cold weather and the mod's the car see's a large increase in air flowing through teh AFM (Air flow meter). This tells the computer thinks there is something wrong and retarss the timming and richen's the fuel...

Thus a large flat spot in the high end of the rev range..

For those that are interested I have included my dyno runs...

Red line - 9 psi, FMIC, pod filter, oil/air sperator

Black line - 3" exhaust from turbo back (& high flow cat), all of the above mods & 11 psi.

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i dont know much about dyno curves so correct me if im wrong but does it indicate that only upping the boost i.e through bleed valve, on a stock car gives better performance that if a turbo back exhaust with 11 psi was applied. Reason being i say this is because red line - stock, seems to be more curver and higher and balck line - modded.

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Hey munna, bring it on a dyno.

My tuner connected a hose to my stock boost lines and the power curve was plotted with boost curve as well. I think dyno is the safest way, sometimes a boost gauge might be wrong as well. for me,without front mount id set it at 10psi,but with 12 psi would make some good power and is reliable

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Thanks some very helpful info there for anybody

considering this mod.

Thanks for the Dyno readouts Robo. I would be interested in seeing a dead stock skylines power curve is anyones got one.

Full exhaust, FMIC, cool air intake, fuel cut defender, 11PSI and SAFC 2 would be the ultimate for this MOD to work to its full potential. Pitty I cant afford all those goodies think ill start with Robo,s Dual boost controller setup will let you all know how it goes.

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