Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK so i brought the car 3 or 4 weeks ago now and since then i have noticed a hard to start problem...

I thought it may have been the coolant temp sensor so replaced that, and still no luck unfortunately :D

It doesnt do it all the time, if i start the car in the morning when it is cold outside it will start fine but the idle will hunt and i will have

to give it some throttle to prevent it from just die'ing in the ass. But if i leave it say 30 mins after i stop and goto start the car it will

crank for between 5-10 seconds before it starts, and it will do this regardless of whether i hold my foot on the accelerator or not. So

it actually does this even when the engine is warm, but if i stop the car and try to start it straight away it will start fine, which makes

it hard to diagnose. Throttle body, injectors etc etc have been cleaned, i was going to clean the AAC valve but didnt really think that

would be the problem since it makes no difference if i give it some throttle when starting... Maybe i have a leaking injector? or are

their any other problems i should look into?

Thanks, Adam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214592-r32-gts-t-hard-to-start/
Share on other sites

OK so me and a mate pulled them out and i got them all overhauled with new seals and caps etc etc and bench cleaned and put them back in thinking i have solved the problem and it still f*cking does it, driving me nuts i am completely out of ideas and dont know what to do, when i crank it it jus DOES NOT want to start for 4 or 5 seconds then fires. I am thinking it is probly losing fuel pressure somewhere? maybe fuel pressure reg ? PLZ help sum1 ??

not a pro but i have a suggestion... fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or your not getting enough spark. if it was the coolant sensor your car would idle high and not come down cause the comp would assume the engine was cold. maybe some new plugs (they could be caked in oil and the previous owner just *forgot* to mention it) and fuel filters are a cheap part to throw at it.

not a pro but i have a suggestion... fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or your not getting enough spark. if it was the coolant sensor your car would idle high and not come down cause the comp would assume the engine was cold. maybe some new plugs (they could be caked in oil and the previous owner just *forgot* to mention it) and fuel filters are a cheap part to throw at it. You should just buy one of our cars lol.

not a pro but i have a suggestion... fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or your not getting enough spark. if it was the coolant sensor your car would idle high and not come down cause the comp would assume the engine was cold. maybe some new plugs (they could be caked in oil and the previous owner just *forgot* to mention it) and fuel filters are a cheap part to throw at it. You should just buy one of our cars lol.

Check for exhaust manifold leaks due to exhaust nuts that are not tightened up properly on turbo to exhaust

manifold joint. Or lose nuts / broken studs on the exhaust manifold itself (common problem with RB motor).

Also check for a sticky IACV valve. IACV valve is located on top of bottom of intake plenum, just

behind throttle body when looking from front of car. Clean and readjust the valve. If there's still

a starting problem after cleaning valve, replace it.

Fuel filter in engine bay or sock (filter) on fuelpump would be next area to look at. Fuel pressure can be checked

by plumbing in a fuel pressure gauge between I think is fuel regulator, fuel filter.

Edited by SKYPER

Has a bosch 040 fuel pump recently fitted well about a year or 2 ago i do rememba see'ing the receipt, it has injector pulse, set of new spark plugs, coilpacks look fine their were no cracks in them they actually looked quite new so i dont think its a spark problem, it makes no difference whether i prime the fuel pump or not. Maybe i am looking at an electrical fault like fuel pump relay or something ??

If car has a bigger aftermarket fuelpump, engine probably will be running rich. You'll need to retune stock ECU

or buy a aftermarket ECU.

Bosch 040 seems to be a 300lph fuelpump, which is probably suited to 6 x 720cc injectors -

http://www.boschfuelpumps.com/

I think stock R32 GTR fuelpump is 195lph and R32 GTS-T is 135lph. So the 040 sounds like a bigger fuelpump than stock R32 GTS-T.

Edited by SKYPER

oh ok, timing belt replaced 400 km's ago along with water pump and all drive belts. The problem was there before we did them so yeh thats not the cause of the problem. it runs lean on start-up though so its asif its not getting enough fuel, i have replaced the coolant temp sensor as that was the first assumption, then a couple of days ago i soldered a resistor in the yellow wire coming off the coolant temp sensor so it would run abit richer, then started it up and it was running way too rich. Should i be looking towards an electrical problem maybe? like a fuel pump relay or something...?

I think there is a electrical trick you have to do to with Bosch fuel pump.

Not sure, but I think it might have been to do with the voltage the pump receives.

Here's a thread about installing Bosch fuelpump in R32 GTS-T -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...html&hl=040

Edited by SKYPER

Check the engine temp sensor.

Then check the ECU

The ECU can tell you where something is not working or you mechanic can do a diagnostics on it to see where the fault lies.

It sounds like a fueling issue.

I am priming the pump, not that stupid lol... and i thought it could have been an immobiliser issue due to a dodgy install but its been pulled out now and still the same problem so that eliminates that. Could a coilpack be causing this issue...? just out of curiosity. Also i have replaced the coolant temp sensor that was the first thing i thought it may have been. And injectors have new seals and caps etc and have been tested and cleaned and they are fine, we tested and their is injector pulse when i am cranking it and it doesnt fire so im definately thinking it is a fuel issue. Just put a new set of plugs in it too

Could also be low battery cranking amps... could try hooking up another battery first thing in the morning to see if it starts right up. My car had that problem after giving a jump to a commodore. Even though it seems to be cranking good enough, the battery could be dying in the arse a bit to make the difference.

  • 5 months later...
fouled up plugs from running too rich which may give less spark thus making the engine hard to start?

hi mate, i have the exact same problem and i have tried all of the above with no change. i have also done a FPR and raised it way up to see if there is a change. ive swaped both the cold start valve and the idle valve. its been a year and still no solution. ill watch this thread and add new things i have tried to help solve this problem.

let me guess it boosts up real good drives fine but its a dog when its cold and when you drive it like a pussy?

Hmm. Well its hard to start. When it does start it misfires for a while. After that it all runs good, doesn't matter how you drive.

i just think to solve my problem is a re-tune for the power fc, I've tried changing cold start switch and doesn't make a difference.

Also tried retarding the timing and no difference.

Well its getting annoying, people think you have a dead battery or your cars just screwed and give you funny looks. LOL.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...