Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Its just a modified type m bar, im looking to get a gtr one though. Ive fitted some ganadors and rear lip since this photo, among other things lol

Even though i like the r33 the least if for some reason it was the only skyline we had available here i would still buy one because they can look good when they are done right :P

Edit: Roy, there was no plastic welding done, i just cut the bar up to the top of the number plate and then made up a small sheet of fiberglass and used a bit of resin or something to join it. Sorry i cant be more specific it was 3-4 years ago now, either way it wasnt hard and is something u could do at home.

Edited by 2630GTS

In standard form no modifying anything... R33 Series 2 > R32 GTS-t

and people seem to be comparing R32 GTR to the R33 Series 1 looks! Yes a kitted up R32 GTS-t looks good... but so can an R33 so theres no point comparing modified example since it just comes down to personal taste.

R33 Series 2 looks newer, newer interior, better engine, more newer/better gizmo stuff in it and is generally newer/better all round while the R32 GTS-t looks outdated - too squared and skinny(mainly the rear and bit skinny at the front), older interior, motor and gearbox is good yes but NOT AS good as the R33 and is generally older all round. R33 Series II wins hands down no ifs no buts!

yeah but you just brought stock for stock looks into it and didn't mention the god awful stock wheels on a 33gtst.....

The 32gtst actually has a nice bulge in the panel at the rear wheels (just like a gtr but not as wide). The 33 is just slab sided so i don't know where you come up with skinny from, maybe just talking the opposite of fat? :whistling:

yeah but you just brought stock for stock looks into it and didn't mention the god awful stock wheels on a 33gtst.....

The 32gtst actually has a nice bulge in the panel at the rear wheels (just like a gtr but not as wide). The 33 is just slab sided so i don't know where you come up with skinny from, maybe just talking the opposite of fat? :banana:

If R33's stock wheels are awful the R32's stockies are worse - they look a bit dated with the end of the spoke curving under the lip kind of thing....

The bulge does help with the R32's look alot but still doesnt help it's "flatness" - needs the GTR spoiler, rear aprons, side skirts and front bar to thicken it up - thats what I meant by skinny. I dont know where you got fat from - R33 Series 1? then yeah it's roundness does give it a fat dildo look haha but the Series 2 looks more 'normal'?

skinny:

32.jpg

Dont get me wrong, I dont hate the R32 or anything like that I love all the Skyline shapes they all have something about them that looks hot :D

r32 with rb25det.... :D

or if you want newer then get a 34....they are getting cheap enough.

but yeah personal opinion

i like 32 cause they look better.

33 are meh...better engine etc.

34's are tops look slightly less better then a 32.

but for bang for bucks.....prob a 33 cheap and good. for looks 32, for newness 34.

To the thread starter; It depends what will the car be used for more; Track or Daily;

Where the R32 lacks in strength/power it makes up in cheap/available parts;

- Purchase car;

- R32: $8000-$11000

- R33: $10,000+

- You kill the engine on the track?

- R32: Buy a $400 replacement or $1000 rebuilt engine (search ns.com forsale)

- R33: Buy a $2000 second hand rb25

- You kill the gearbox?

- R32: Buy a $300 second hand gearbox OR fully rebuild rb20 gearbox $900 (http://www.japanesegearbox.com.au/)

- R33: Buy a second hand rb25 gearbox $1500

- Kill the turbo?

- R32: Just buy a r33 turbo and gain more power

- R33: Sounds like a good time to upgrade = $$ :banana:

- Need larger injectors?

- R32: Purchase second hand r34 GTR injectors for $300

- R33: Keep current or upgrade to aftermarket

- Larger exhaust?

- R32/R33 share same front/dump pipe so plenty parts avail

So best case you could do is;

Pick up a $8000 R32; replace the engine and gearbox for $2000~(parts) and should last for a long time with no hassles.

The r32 is older and no doubt has more little problems than the r33.

if you are only after a daily, then go for a stock r33 as there will be less things to be fixed

But if you are keen on track, then i reckon the r32 will be a cheaper/fun car as parts are cheap and unwanted unlike r33 parts.

So the more people who dont like the r32 = more cheaper parts for me :)

Hope that helps

- Patrick

i can't believe this thread's gone this far.. havent looked at it for a few days and it's almost doubled its pages

everytime there's a topic over 20 vs 25 or sr vs rb the talk just goes on...

my friend once said, skyline owners are very interesting, everyone seems to hate/dislike each other, r34 hates r33 hates r32, rb26 hates 25/20, rb25 and rb20 hates each other, and gtr hates everything.... and they all hate the rest of other cars on the streets. he drives a gtr so i guess that just showed his attitude towards every other lines on the street, bit of a snob comment if u ask me, but pretty true to a certain extent, everyone's too proud of their skyline... it's an awesome car thats why

rekin's got a pretty good analysis there, based on that and plus the topic starter test drive the cars and i dont think it'll be hard to work out what he prefers

cheers

Edited by chiksluvit

Yeh, there's so much animosity between the models/motors it's a joke. The thread starter probably read through all the sh!t we've posted and is like "WTF? I don't know what to pick? Silvia it is..."

Seriously though, i'd be comparing an RB20 to an SR20. They're not that far apart, minus no. of cylinders. I reckon an R32 with a black top SR20 would be a weapon. Wonder what Roy has to say about that? :blink:

Yeh, there's so much animosity between the models/motors it's a joke. The thread starter probably read through all the sh!t we've posted and is like "WTF? I don't know what to pick? Silvia it is..."

Seriously though, i'd be comparing an RB20 to an SR20. They're not that far apart, minus no. of cylinders. I reckon an R32 with a black top SR20 would be a weapon. Wonder what Roy has to say about that? :blink:

they are a weapon, there are a few going around atm.

still dont sound like an rb though.

it all personal opinion though.

  • 3 months later...

what a bunch of tools... now for commenting, i'm in the tool box that everyone here calls home.... would you smash a chick that was hot, or felt good on the inside?...

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY, DONT WORRY ABOUT WHAT US TOOLS THINK

It's your car, your money, your choice...

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...