Jump to content
SAU Community

Trust TD06-20g stage one

rob77

By rob77,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted

Since buying the turbo I have found out it uses a 16cm exhaust housing, which is quite large. We will fit it as is but if it is laggy I'll look into a smaller exhaust housing and depending on how much it is I might go down that path. Here is a picture of the turbo and wastegate together, as you can see the wastegate has been attached to the exhaust housing. It will be fitted tomorrow and my dump+front pipe remade to suit the external wastegate on wednesday all going well should be at the dyno wednesday night. I'll post the graph once its done and some installed pics as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21468-trust-td06-20g-stage-one/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I thought I got it for a bargain but then we pulled the exhaust housing off and found the engine it'd be on before (mazda rx3) let an apex seal go and it went through the exhaust housing and shattered the exhaust wheel. I cant go into it a great deal as I am going through ACCC with the shop that sold it but to repair it completely will cost and arm and a leg as trust dont sell spare wheels. So we've tried a compromise and we will see how it goes, if it works great and makes max boost before 3500rpm I'll be happy. But as I said it came off a rotary and they flow a lot more gas hence the bigger exhaust housing, so it could be a lag monster yet. btw: I bought it without the wastegate, the wastegate I bought new and was another $650 or so.

Guest 570CK

Guest 570CK

Posted
Posted

Its easier / cheaper to do it that way.

"it's good for controlling boost"

No better control then having the wastegate coming off the manifold. Plus it disrupts the flow of air thats suppost to flow into a smaller chamber to blow onto the turbine.

Anyway, external wastegates control boost better. So I'm confused why slapping a wastegate there would make any difference to boost control.

:D

Rob it will work, just changes the characteristics of the exhaust housing.

DoughBoy Veteran

DoughBoy

Posted
Posted

TD06-20G has a bigger compressor wheel than the TD06-19c - and the exhaust housing that Rob77 has would be considerably larger than what is normally specc'd for an RB series engine. Then again it will probably make alot more power due to that fact.

rbs13 Community Regular

rbs13

Posted
Posted

jms used this turbo on their drift 1via.. made 250rwkw on 1.5 bar i belive.. (rb20).. cept wastegate was put on custom steel block welded on to the existing manifold.. if it has good response for drifting on a rb20 i would say it would be alright on rb25. they also had a rotary style zoorst housing.

EVOIV Community Regular

EVOIV

Posted
Posted

I am not sure if putting the external wastegate on the exhaust housing would be such a good idea. I'm no expert, but wouldn't that setup increase the amount of heat as the exhaust housing is gonna be damn hot, and so is the wastegate? I think the real problem with that setup is that you will need a good manifold to suit. Will the manifold be nice flowing and one that is matched?

Anyway, would be interesting to see the results. The turbo does seem pretty big, hopefully not too laggy on the RB25. What happens if you want to change to a smaller exhaust housing? You'll have to weld off the wastegate too right? Another thing, is the manifold a high mount? If so, won't you have problems shutting the bonnet of the car with the wastegate sticking out? Or is it a low mount manifold? Room in the engine bay could be a problem. I guess you could always cut a hole in the bonnet and let the wastegate stick out ;)

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: turbo's installed car is at the exhaust workshop today getting a new dump+front pipe made up to suit the external wastegate. I'll be going with one that plumbs back into the exhaust gases pipe so that its a bit quieter than a screamer pipe... last thing I need is a yellow sticker :) Fingers crossed it should be ready tonight and we can roll it onto the dyno tonight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...