Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by haste

Does anyone know where to get a road worthy, even though the car has a relatively sizeable top mount turbo? Need to get the car registered.

i just got my car rw and rego'd with top mount but then a mate went to same rw place a week later and they wont do it. still hasnt found anyone to do it. its all luck.

RW testers are liable in court if you or someone else is hurt ,or in any accident if the car is found to be un road worthy. Accident insurance apraisers do check.  

It is more difficult now

Thing is though, you took the vehicle there, they tested it.. a week later 50 mods are back on after you left it with your "brother" there isn't much they can do.

Anyway, with the big top-mount turbo thing, you should be able to get it engineered for under $1000, then its fully roadworthy and can be registered that way. Probably the best way to go about it. It is possible to be fully legal you know, it just takes a bit of $

Get it done properly. (Eng cert, etc)

Think about, if you can get a RWC for a car that obviously isn't, then what does that say about RWC when you go sell/buy a car?

If there is one standard that EVERYONE sticks to, then everyone knows what a RWC means. Otherwise, you might as well sell your car with the 7 of clubs cuz that is as bout as meaningless as a RWC.

i spoke to an engineer about getting my car engineered so that its all legit. he told me that you cant get a car engineered that has been modified that is newer than the 80's (?) and he said that the only way to do it was to get it checked by the epa which cost 4k. dont know if this is ture though.

No, its not actually true.. but some places probably are either unfamiliar with how to do it, or can't be bothered.

Getting it certified for EPA pollution regs is again a different matter..and yup, i think its a few $k because it has to go through a full involved process

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...