Jump to content
SAU Community

Vq25det M35 Stagea Turbo, I Need A New One


danwatt
 Share

Recommended Posts

??? :D

Well they are special, the particular model isnt used in any other vehicle afaik? But, functionally, I didnt think they were any different to your stock standard turbo and wouldnt require any 'special' skillset to rebuild?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Well they are special, the particular model isnt used in any other vehicle afaik? But, functionally, I didnt think they were any different to your stock standard turbo and wouldnt require any 'special' skillset to rebuild?

I agree, no special skill set to rebuild BUT the advise you get is critical. I have spoken to so many people who say that a 30/76 would be great in the M35. Jetwreck is running a 30/71 in his car and his car has a lot of lag.

I just had mine rebuilt as a Sierra Stage 1 (compressor =43mm / Exhaust = 45mm) and this is almost perfect IMO. There is some lag but not an issue to drive around but it comes on strong and what is equally crucial is the question, Is this the last mod you want to do?

The reason I say this is because my injectors are at 100% duty cycle at 6800rpm (or maybe a tad higher), so any bigger turbo will mean you need to think about new injectors and piggy back ECU.

Cheers

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think there is a model number written on it... I can check tonight if needed.

I would be giving the turbo ONLY to someone who has done this turbo before as it is special.

yeah im of a totally different opinion there hey. whats so "special" about it ?

i need MTQ to assess what will suit as a high flow

and need to know whats written on the body to give them some gauge of what will suit.

just because others have done them before and tell you cant get them done elsewhere doesnt make it true!

bb hiflow is a hiflow if theyve got the technical skills to do it then its much of a muchness really.

ive hiflowed a much tighter unit and half the sized housing with a GT25 bordering a GT28 inlet .. and 30/70 is possible as craig has one. i really dont see the big deal as theres massive clearence for maching the housing and the replacement catridge.

if someone says otherwise that noone else can do it but us.. . theyre probably saying that to get the business.

my money is on either a GT30/70 or a 2860RS GT BB for $1465 as a hiflow at MTQ and im betting its just as good as GCG or others have done and cheaper too :D

Edited by PetroDola
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you should be going bigger injectors if youre at 100%. youre running the risk of detonation and a craig 'situation'

It only gets to 100% duty cycle at over 7000rpm, not where I drive it on a regular basis.

Also that does not mean it is leaning out it just means the car is not as rich as the computer would like it to be.

I will put it on the dyno in the next couple of weeks and that will give me an idea what is going on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

spray patterns and injector flow rates arent as good up in the high numbers. people dont upgrade to get more from the injectors, its so they can remain in the 'safe' area

anyway, get an adjustable FPR and up the pressure a little. youll squeeze some more out of them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And make it even richer down low perhaps?

Emanage... You know you want to. :D

I'm down for one if we can hide it properly!

can we make it look like a hitech amp in the boot ? lol

i can see it now..my emanage sitting on the passenger floor cables everywhere hanging from the dash, motorbike cop leaning in the window saying "well looky looky here then.. whats this all about?"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm down for one if we can hide it properly!

can we make it look like a hitech amp in the boot ? lol

i can see it now..my emanage sitting on the passenger floor cables everywhere hanging from the dash, motorbike cop leaning in the window saying "well looky looky here then.. whats this all about?"

They fit quite nicely beside the stock ECU actually :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i can see it now..my emanage sitting on the passenger floor cables everywhere hanging from the dash, motorbike cop leaning in the window saying "well looky looky here then.. whats this all about?"

hahahaha i had one double-sided taped next to my knee in my S15. cops would look at it and ask what it was, i mostly told them it was a mobile phone charger, thats what the USB port is for lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two tyres U have mentioned are the same height as the profile height is a  calculated percentage of the width 
    • appears to be, I loosened the bleeder on top IACV and coolant came out.
    • The markings on a balancer are on the outer. The outer is separated from the inner by the rubber. The outer and the inner can, and will, slip against each other as the balancer starts to fail. Put a new balancer on it.
    • Are you going to be at WTAC this year @bcozican? Just realised it's coming up end of August so not long to go at all. https://www.worldtimeattack.com/
    • I just replaced the timing belt, along with tensioner, idler, water pump, etc. all the front end engine stuff with all new stock Nissan parts on my 98 R34 GTT that I just recently got, so glad I did as the belt ,tensor, idler and water pump were all original to the car with over 161 Km and looked absolutely terrible, honestly I cant believe the belt has not broken, luckily I have not driving the vehicle since I got it, and only have ran a few times because I've been restoring it over this winter. I turned engine over by hand and lined up all the timing marks from cams, to the head (plate behind pulleys), and crank to  oil pump block mark, as ran fine, but had a lot of front end noise. the idler sounded like gravel and the tensioner had to no tensor left on it at all as it appeared the spring had rusted in place due to a waterpump leak over the years. so the timing belt was very loose on the left or tensioner side. Never the less I turn engine by hand until everything lined up even with the marks on the original belt. I remove everything making sure not to rotate anything, then put in new tensioner,  idler, made sure all marks from belt matched marks on the pulleys, cams and crank alike and all marks from crank and cams to head and block were perfect. I slowly turned by hand and everything lined up on the cams and crank to the head and block every other time, as proper. all looked fine until I put the lower timing belt cover back on, then the  harmonic balancer, at this point before torqueing the crank bolt down I noticed the timing mark on the lower cover to the harmonic balancer is off. I think the marks on the harmonic balancer and in 5 degrees, from 0-20  and it should be at 0, but some how its around -2.5, not enough for a belt notch, and there is little play in this cover to the block. The key way and key are perfect on the crank and slot in balancer is perfect, no play here, and the cams and other timing marks seem to be on. Is this something to be concerned with or will it be fine. maybe just this way due to a new stock Nissan belt?? slightly tight and will stretch a hair??? I marked the CAS before disassembly and know it should be set to 15 degrees BTDC or so at 650 rpms per engine decal. so do I need to worry about what appears to be a slight retard of the mechanical timing? or will this slight difference be compensated when I adjust my CAS?   appreciate any insight.    
×
×
  • Create New...