Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just curious to see how much preload people are running on their ajustable actuators.

i had a problem of apparently not running enough which is why my hiflow could only hold boost at 13 psi.

im getting a retune next week. from 3/4 of a hole of preload i have now loaded it up to 1.8 holes.

what do u guys reccommend as safe preload on a rb25 bush bearing hiflow or any type of hiflow

thanks :)

Edited by R33GOD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215503-dropping-boost-cant-find-why/
Share on other sites

Simply, the more preload the more boost.

Ive messed around with mine on the GTRS tubo and have it preloaded to run 18psi atm. I ran it for a weekend with the preload to run 25psi and it held the boost perfectly. Just shorten it till you get your desired boost level and see how you go.

RedDrifter is pretty much spot on...just keep shortening the rod...you will find that as you shorten the rod boost response improves...it will reach a point when it will be optimum and shortening the rod more will cause boost to spike...from there you can raise your boost further by using a boost controller...while shortening the rod more will give a higher max boost...it will probably start to spike more too...plus what you really want is for the wastegate flap to stay shut till you reach your desired boost level which won't be the case if you continue shortening the rod as the flap will start to creep open at some point...

I'd be more inclined to adjust the length of the rod till you get good boost response without spiking...then raise the boost with a boost controller...

it spikes to 15 with the rod ajusted to 1.8 holes then comes back down to 12psi. if i tighten it more should the spike be lower and it will hold say 13-14 psi?

but dosent shortening the rod kill the turbo also? shouldnt the boost controller do the rest? or is the reason why its spiking is because i need to tighten more?

confused

How does it kill the turbo?

Its just controlling the actuator. A turbo makes boost, thats it. Only thing that will kill is it objects that shouldnt be there or poor oil/water supply etc.

Gate preload works the same as ext gates and spring rates.

Spiking will be due to the fact its int gate, get a boost controller. Sometimes spiking cant be controlled just off the actuator accurately depending on the setup of the int gate, how big the hole is and so on

ive got a hdi boost controller in it now but i have to get it retuned so i can up the boost more. i just dont get it. its a hiflow. how come its droppin boost so much even though the preload is set at nearly 2 holes. grrrrrrrr

It might not actually be "dropping" boost like you think...its probably set to run 12psi and its spiking to 15psi...try lengthening the rod and then upping the boost via the boost controller...although bear in mind that a slight spike is normal as it is a mechanical system and it needs time to stabilize...

car will not hold boost at all. we tried ramping it up to 20psi but still drops down to 13 psi. damn this car.

these are the turbo specs i got from mtq

Exhaust side

.63 a/r

51.00mm exd.

Comp side.

.60 a/r

55.4mm ind.

preload was set to 2 holes also!!!

wtf is going on

think before you type.

thats a load of crap....

read the part after the comma please, matter of fact... read the sentence after it as well while your there.

it said (incase you still miss it)

get a boost controller

And what did he post later on? He needs a EBC to help control the boost.

Funny that. Picking one section of an entire post is useless when the rest of the post gets the point across.

Maybe read posts twice before you type?

it spikes to 15 with the rod ajusted to 1.8 holes then comes back down to 12psi. if i tighten it more should the spike be lower and it will hold say 13-14 psi?

but dosent shortening the rod kill the turbo also? shouldnt the boost controller do the rest? or is the reason why its spiking is because i need to tighten more?

confused

whats 1.8 holes ???

i have about 8-9mm preload on my 2530 turbos on my 32gtr any less and it won't hold boost even on low psi

i have just got a new set of uprated hks actuators so we'll see how much preload i need to put on these

even with 8mm preload on the standard actuators that came with the 2530's they still open at 13psi without the boost controller switched on i can't believe how much force is behind the wastegates even at 3-4 psi of boost

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
×
×
  • Create New...