Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My late 1989 R31 GXE. never actually got decent shots of it, so i thought i should take some before its heart gets ripped out tommorow. probably one of the best cars i have ever driven...deffinitely getting another one down the track! :laugh:

post-45120-1281083865_thumb.jpg

post-45120-1281083874_thumb.jpg

post-45120-1281083880_thumb.jpg

Hardparking at its finest :bunny:

1279282033.jpg

Everytime I've viewed this thread since you posted this, I've wonder wtf is hard about that? There's no car in the other spot to bump and it seems like a very roomy space. Or am I missing something? Nice 4 door though man, good to see you get it sideways! How does the N/A go at the drifting, do you need to rape it? Also, is it able to link corners with a good driver or does it run out of puff? If you have vids of your drifting I'd love to see it!

Fast & furious? maybe just furious, those F&F cars have super turbed engines lol

actually that gtr that (Bryan O'Connor) drove in 2F 2F was actually a n/a r34 with a gtr body kit . don't believe there fast because they say they are its just the movies , most of those cars were n/a

actually that gtr that (Bryan O'Connor) drove in 2F 2F was actually a n/a r34 with a gtr body kit . don't believe there fast because they say they are its just the movies , most of those cars were n/a

I heard it was a GTT?

Everytime I've viewed this thread since you posted this, I've wonder wtf is hard about that? There's no car in the other spot to bump and it seems like a very roomy space. Or am I missing something? Nice 4 door though man, good to see you get it sideways! How does the N/A go at the drifting, do you need to rape it? Also, is it able to link corners with a good driver or does it run out of puff? If you have vids of your drifting I'd love to see it!

Hardparking is simply another word used for posing...

The N/A goes alright at drifting, it does need a bit of raping to get it going well. Linking corners isn't really a problem, but the car does run out of puff, especially on longer corners.

Ive only ever drifted it at Qld Raceway, so I'm not sure how it would go on the smaller tracks. I dare say it would probably go pretty good on them

4852569148_f113be5a15_b.jpg

Some recent shots of mine :P .. Going to be lowering the rear a tiny bit more this weekend if i'm bothered

dsc00139nu.jpg

dsc00122c.jpg

dsc00142xd.jpg

Do you by any chance go to University of western sydney, im pretty sure i saw this skyline. what caught my eye was the GTT or nismo style body kit and the nice set of rims, i thought it was a turbo until i saw the Green p plates.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...